2012 Famille Brechet Chateau de Vaudieu Chateauneuf-du-Pape Amiral G 750 ml

When Philippe Cambie Talks, People Listen

The promise of Vaudieu was never in question in the cafes of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The magnificent château with its perfectly situated vineyards, punctuated by a stunning sandy-soil stretch adjacent to Château Rayas, was arguably the most coveted property of the appellation. But for years, as the likes of Rayas, Clos du Caillou, and Clos St. Jean captured the imagination of collectors worldwide, Vaudieu was left behind.

But that all changed in 2005 when owner Laurent Bréchet met Philippe Cambie. Born in Pézenas, Cambie grew up in the vineyards of the Languedoc, a “child of the Mediterranean basin.” Since then, Robert Parker’s 2010 “Winemaker of the Year” has authored an incredible 25 wines rated 98-100 points by Parker — ELEVEN of which have reached the apex. His work in the southern Rhône has often been compared to that of Michel Rolland on Bordeaux’s Right Bank. In other words, when he talks, people listen.

When Cambie first sat down with Laurent, we’re told, it wasn’t pretty.

As big a man as Cambie is, he’s equally gentle — except when it comes to winegrowing. Either “Laurent would completely rework the vineyards, farm sustainably, manage canopies and drop fruit to magnify concentration, or there would be no deal.” Bréchet purportedly looked at Cambie’s kind, Sidney Greenstreet face, saw the resolve behind all that kindness, and did what he was obliged to do. He handed the Vaudieu keys over to Cambie.

Their first vintage together was 2006. Already you could see the first vestiges of forward fruit concentration — Cambie’s winemaking signature. In the monumental 2007 vintage, the Châteauneuf was darker, juicier, and even more supple and concentrated. But the story here isn’t so much about vintages, but about the immense progress Bréchet was making in the vines. In 2008, an unjustly maligned vintage in the southern Rhône, Cambie’s rendition was a huge commercial success, scoring even higher than the juicy 2007.

In 2010, Bréchet and Cambie released their first bottling of “Amiral G,” a hugely concentrated, 100% Grenache, completely destemmed and aged in new oak demi-muids for 18 months. Parker went wild, dropping 98 points on the inaugural, tiny-production cuvée. Amidst the frenzy of critical success, Cambie and Bréchet decided that “Amiral G” would only be produced in the most outstanding vintages. 2011, plagued by uneven ripening, didn’t make the cut. Since then, today’s 2012 is the only year that did. We’ve asked about plans for another “Amiral G”, but have yet to get an answer.

In the knockout 2012 vintage in the southern Rhône, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate published 37 reviews of 95-99 points. Beaucastel’s “Hommage à Jacques Perrin” (99pts/$530) and Clos Saint-Jean Châteauneuf du Pape Deus-Ex Machina (98/$235) led the charge. At a fraction of the price, Cambie and Bréchet (96/$90) weren’t far behind.

The growing season in 2012 got off to a very cold start, which caused concern initially, and resulted in problems during flowering. The fruit set was tiny, and yields were down as much as 60% in some places. Luckily, summer did a 180, ushering in a heat wave that allowed the vines to surge ahead in the ripening cycle. The end of August brought light rains and cleansing winds, much like 2010, and harvest took place under pristine conditions. Grenache came in perfectly ripe, and jet-black in color. Awed by the vintage’s finale, growers labeled it a logical mix of 2007 and 2010, the two greatest vintages in Châteauneuf since 1978.

Dark, rich, elixir-like, touched by the signature hands of the enologist who Parker can’t stop raving about, Famille Bréchet’s 2012 Château de Vaudieu Châteauneuf du Pape Amiral G is “up there with the crème of the vintage.” Sweet nose of black raspberry, strawberry, red licorice, and rose petal. Full bodied and voluptuous on entry, with blackberry, plum, and boysenberry coulis. Fine-grained tannins support the huge fruit core into the finish where charcoal and tobacco linger.

We’re not sure when the next vintage of “Amiral G” will be made, if at all. The majority only gets as far as London, Geneva, and Paris. Today’s 120 bottles are the only ones en route to the U.S., making the price tag an afterthought. Our advice: Take Parker’s 96-pointer, drink one now and lay down two in a comfortable spot in your cellar. Don’t think about them for 10 (or 20) years, then send us a note after opening. You’ll be glad you did.