2012 Hilliard Bruce Vineyards Pinot Noir Sun Sta. Rita Hills 750 ml

A “Perfect” 2012 Harvest in Sta. Rita Hills

While the ratings from Wine Spectator, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and Antonio Galloni’s Vinous differ in many parts of the world, when it comes to California’s greatest Pinot Noirs, the top-scoring names are much the same. From north to south, it begins with Peter Michael, followed closely by Kistler and Luc Morlet — most drawn off the Goldridge soils of Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. Down in the Santa Cruz Mountains, it's the low-alcohol, high-energy Pinots from Rhys that earn top billing.

But all the way south, in what many believe to be the hottest spot for Pinot Noir in America, where the fog they call “sea smoke” cloaks Point Conception, one winemaker has garnered more critical acclaim than any other for Pinot Noir drawn off the sandy Sta. Rita Hills, and it’s no contest: Greg Brewer rules the roost.

At Brewer-Clifton, Melville, and Hilliard Bruce, Brewer has earned over 100 reviews between 93-97 points from Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, and Antonio Galloni’s Vinous for his Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir since 2002. So no one was surprised when Greg’s 2012 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills was ranked #8 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100. But over lunch last week in Los Olivos, Greg told us that another of his 2012s may well turn out to be his most extraordinary to date.

John Hilliard and Christine Bruce purchased this 101-acre property just west of Babcock, Clos Pepe, and Melville in 2002, and every decision at Hilliard Bruce has been made with the utmost care and precision. Dijon clones 667, 777, and 115, Pommard, and Calera were chosen based on the soil type and exposition for two south-facing parcels. The interplay of morning “sea smoke,” sun-drenched afternoons, and 40 m.p.h. marine winds leads to varying microclimate conditions in these blocks. Densely planted on 3’ x 6’ rows, all shoots are hand-tied, allowing for consistent sunlight on each cluster.

The 2012 growing season was magnificent on the Santa Barbara Coast, just as it was in Napa and Sonoma. Exceedingly dry, full of sunshine but quite cool and mild, the extended growing season led to what our lunch host called a “perfect” harvest. Super-sweet, BB-sized berries were gingerly placed in small bins and trucked to the winery and 100% destemmed and cold-soaked. Then Greg Brewer did what he’s always done best: He performed his cellar magic.

Brewer’s 2012 Hilliard Bruce Pinot Noir “Sun” is brilliant ruby-red. Seductive aromas of black cherry, raspberry, and exotic spices, framed by new-wood cedar. Rich, juicy, and finely layered on the attack, showing excellent energy and precision. The core is densely packed with a mix of crushed red fruits, wild cherry, flowers, and licorice. Finishing with great purity, length, and supple tannins. Drink now-2025.

93 points from Antonio Galloni’s Vinous, making this the #1 2012 California Pinot Noir under $35. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate praised it as “gorgeous,” displaying “classic Sta. Rita Hills character, one of Brewer’s “standouts in the vintage.” Usually $45/bottle. Just $34.99 today — eclipsing Wine Spectator’s #8 wine of the year on our scorecards!