2012 Petrolo Torrione Toscana 750 ml

Wine Advocate’s #1 Super Tuscan Bargain …
5 Years Running

We first visited Petrolo in the fall of 2013. Located in the Valdarno Superiore, in the center of a triangle made by Florence to the north, Siena to the southwest, and Arezzo to the southeast, this is the only notable estate in the neighborhood. But as you pull into the Sanjust property and begin climbing — and climbing — you quickly get a sense of the passion and resolve that went into the planting and upkeep of this world-class vineyard.

The estate is sprawling — a 672-acre mix of forest and hills — just 11 percent of which is planted to Sangiovese and Bordeaux varieties. After a three-hour walk, we dined under the stars, then spent the night at one of the family’s villas. When we awoke, we pulled back the bedroom curtains, stepped out on the patio, and took a look down below. The valley floor was shrouded by fog as thick as pea soup, even as the sun shined brightly on Petrolo. After breakfast, we pulled up seats at the tasting table, and would soon learn how this spectacular perch — high above the fog line — gives birth to one of the most legendary Super Tuscans.

Over the last half-dozen years, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust’s Petrolo has become one of the most critically decorated estates in Tuscany. Wine Spectator called Petrolo’s top cuvée, Galatrona, the “Le Pin of Tuscany.” Then James Suckling, the longtime Wine Spectator European bureau chief, piled on, ranking Petrolo’s 2011 Galatrona (99 points) and 2011 Bogginanfora (96 points) the highest and fourth-highest rated of Suckling’s top 100 Italian wines of 2013.

As for Petrolo’s “bargain” blend, Torrione, no under-$39 Super Tuscan comes close to matching the Wine Advocate ratings. From 2007-2011, every vintage earned at least 91 points. But with the fabulously juicy 2012 — a plush blend of wild-berry Sangiovese and broad-shouldered Cabernet Sauvignon — Torrione reached new heights.

The 2012 Petrolo Torrione is saturated purple in color. Explosive aromatically, infused with luscious primary-fruit aromas of black cherry, anise, a whiff of tapenade, and a splash of kirsch. Rich, ultra-concentrated, and DENSE on the attack, velour-like in texture, the core is filled with crushed-black-fruit compote, black cherry, and sweet spice, finishing with sturdy, high-elevation backbone. Drink now for its youthful exuberance or, far better, lay the 2012 Torrione down until the early 2020s. It could surely use the rest.

93 points. $50 on release. Offered for $29.99 in February. A sizzling $24 today, as we do as directed and clean up the bits and pieces.