2013 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ronchi 750 ml

The “Epic” 2013 Vintage: Albino Rocca’s 95pt 2013 Barbaresco Ronchi

The week before VinItaly in April of 2016, we had the opportunity to connect with some of our favorite producers from Barolo and Barbaresco, including Sergio Germano, Elio Grasso, Luigi Pira, Moccagatta, and Albino Rocca.

We were greeted at the door of Albino Rocca’s Piedmont estate by Paola Rocca, one of three sisters now in charge of the winery. Her smile reminded us of her late father, Angelo, who died too soon in 2012. The estate named after Paola’s grandfather lies less than a mile down the road from Italian wine pioneers Bruno Giacosa and Angelo Gaja in Barbaresco, but in hospitality it takes a back seat to no one. As we toured the recently renovated winery and barrel room, we understood how the daughters are honoring the family legacy while guiding the family business into the future.

But Paola and her sisters Daniela and Monica, along with Paola’s husband Carlo Castellengo, are at least as invested in what happens in their precious vines as they are in the state-of-the-art facility. The outstanding, manicured crus that contribute to the Nebbiolo production at Albino Rocca are Vigna Loreto, Vigna Montersino, and Vigna Ronchi.

At its best, Loreto produces intensely dark and fleshy wines with luxurious notes of leather and tobacco, whereas Montersino puts density and spice on full display, bracketed by Vosne-like acidity and restraint. Then there’s Vigna Ronchi.

First planted in 1950, Ronchi sits on 6.6 acres of mostly clay-rich soils. These well-drained, southeast-facing slopes contain much less sand than Loreto and Montersino, thus with the potential to produce the largest, juiciest and ample of wines in the finest vintages. 2013 was that kind of vintage.

From January to early April 2013, there was barely a day when Piedmont’s cafes were serving on their outdoor terraces. The weather was miserable — gray skies, rain, sleet, even some wet snow. Bud-break came two weeks late as a result.

The summer months were mostly sunny and mild, but vines were still well behind. Then starting in the beginning of the second week of September, Vigna Ronchi bathed in sunshine for seven consecutive weeks. Under turquoise skies, sugars soared in late October. The Rocca sisters took full advantage and made the call to harvest in one of the latest growing seasons in recent memory. Finished alcohol climbed to a steady 14.5%. Tannins were ripe and sumptuous. Acids were firm.

In December of 2015, Antonio Galloni published his annual Barbaresco vintage report. Inspired by 2013’s “Regal Classicism,” the most respected Piedmont wine critic in the world said the vintage was “shaping up to be an epic vintage of classic proportions and superb pedigree.” Galloni punctuated his assessment with a vintage rating of 95+ points.

According to Galloni, the top Barbarescos of the 2013 vintage were — unsurprisingly — Gaja’s Sorì San Lorenzo and Costa Russi, both earning 98 points at $450/bottle. A few notches behind is Albino Rocca’s 2013 Barbaresco Vigna Ronchi with 95 points at just a FRACTION of the price.

Deep garnet-red in hue, Albino Rocca’s 2013 Vigna Ronchi oozes with black cherries, Piedmont hazelnuts, sweet spice, pine needle, and tobacco. Rich and pliant on the attack and densely packed with a red-fruit core, seamlessly balanced by fresh acidity and fine-grain tannins into a long, long finish. Sock a few of these away for a decade or longer and you’ll be delightfully reacquainted with a classic. Or do as we do — decant and drink up for its youthful fruit and pristine focus.

Just a few hundred cases will make it stateside, but thanks to the Rocca sisters, 400 bottles have been earmarked for WineAccess. $60/bottle on the shelf (if you can find it). Just $44/bottle today. Shipping included on 4.