2013 Sbragia Family Vineyards Godspeed Mount Veeder Napa Valley 750 ml

The Smart Buy amongst Mt. Veeder’s Stunning 2013 Cabernet Elite

When it comes to Napa Valley’s mountain Cabernet Sauvignons, palate preferences tend to divide sharply. High-elevation purists are captivated by Howell Mountain, where daytime highs are lower than most of the valley but where nights tend to be on the warmer side. This more regular ripening cycle makes for Cabernet Sauvignons that are dense and suave, often complicated by notes of rose petal and pine needles, finishing with chiseled refinement.

Others are partial to the massive reds coming off Mount Veeder. While Mt. Veeder’s varied soil types and exposures inspire more diversity in Cabernet Sauvignon than Howell Mountain, its top Cabernets are among the most opulent in all of Napa Valley. Days can be blistering hot, while nights, particularly at elevations above 1,200 feet, can be quite chilly.

In those rare, near-perfect growing seasons, the top vineyards of Mt. Veeder account for monumental Cabernet Sauvignons infused with extravagant black-fruit richness, bracketed by sneaky tannin backbone that argues for 10-20 years of cellar slumber.

2013 — judged by Robert Parker to be “one of the most epic and awesome vintages” in the history of Napa Valley — was certainly one of those growing seasons. And Sbragia’s 2013 “Godspeed” Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon is one of those wines. Look no further than the Parker review we quote below: This very wine “demonstrates why, as good as 2013 is, this is an exceptional, singular, and possibly once-in-a-lifetime vintage for Bordeaux varietals in Napa.”

Ed Sbragia, along with Craig Williams at Phelps and Bob Levy at Harlan, remains one of the most revered winemakers in the valley. In his 32 years as head winemaker at Beringer, he authored all of Beringer’s iconic Private Reserve Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons. That practically flawless run prompted Parker to suggest that Sbragia had a “Midas touch.”

In 2006, Sbragia went his own way, purchasing the old Lake Sonoma Winery and crafting small-batch Cabernet Sauvignon from a handful of vineyards with which he’d been working for over 30 years.

One of the brightest stars of that select group is the Godspeed vineyard on Mt. Veeder. Accessed via a narrow, winding road, the 22-acre site stretches up to 1,500 feet in elevation. Cabernet vines cling to the steep slopes where the back-breaking work of pruning and picking is done by hand. The mixed sedimentary and volcanic soils eke out tiny yields per acres, producing small clusters of phenomenal ripeness and concentration.

In the magic 2013 growing season, filled with blue-sky days where daytime highs stayed between the mid-80s and mid-90s, wines from Mt. Veeder had the critics lapping them up. Fruit from the iconic Lokoya vineyard, adjacent to Godspeed, was responsible for the stupendous 2013 Lokoya Mt. Veeder Cabernet, which pulled down a perfect 100 points from Robert Parker — and is now going for $390 a pop. A glance at the chart reveals a bevy of Parker darlings from the heights of Mt. Veeder — and that this Sbragia release is the deal of the bunch.

“Stunning,” said Parker in his review, calling it “an opulent, full-bodied wine with terrific integration of acidity, tannin and alcohol.” Then he poured on a rave 93-95 points.

The 2013 Sbragia Cabernet Sauvignon “Godspeed" Mount Veeder is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Aged 27 months in new French oak. Saturated purple in color, infused with lavish aromas of crushed blueberry, raspberry and graphite. Rich, plush, and massive on the attack, packed with a luscious mix of cassis, licorice, savory herbs and chocolate. Exhibiting the sturdy structure and fine tannins of a top Bordeaux, it will cellar beautifully through 2025.

Now for the bad news: Only 350 bottles available exclusively to WineAccess at $59.99 — that’s 37% OFF the release price of $95. If you can find an equally opulent 2013 Mt. Veeder at a better price, we’re all ears. In the meantime, the clock is ticking on the fast-shrinking stock of Ed Sbragia’s brilliant mountain Cabernet 2013 release. Shipping included on 4.