2013 Tenuta di Gracciano della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 750 ml

Third Time’s a Charm — Wooing Giorgio della Seta in Montepulciano

As the crow flies, Montepulciano isn’t even 20 miles from the fabled hillsides of Montalcino. But it’s slow going on the SP14, SR2, and SP146 as you travel east, passing through San Quirico d'Orcia (with its “top-less” tower and Romanesque church), and tiny Pienza (the birthplace of Pope Pius II).

On three separate trips to Montepulciano, we’d made the journey to taste with Giorgio della Seta, the former telecommunications mogul and owner of Tenuta di Gracciano. In addition to a state-of-the-art winery built in 2013, the family holdings include four estate vineyards, some of the most historic crus of Montepulciano: Casale, Toraia, Maramai, and Podere Rovisci, harboring vines between 15 and 40 years of age and views fit for a Pope.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is the only Tuscan appellation regularly turning out Sangiovese that outpoints the Montalcino elite. Della Seta is well aware of the potential of his vineyards. In addition to the new winery, he has implemented organic farming, cutting out all pesticide use. Three of his south-facing crus — Toraia, Maramai, and Podere Rovisci — are planted to Prugnolo Gentile, the local clone of Sangiovese used to make Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which has slightly thicker skins. The aspect and exposure of Della Seta’s vineyards creates a uniquely warm microclimate where grapes ripen to perfection without the threat of desiccation from frost damage, all the while abetted by cleansing winds.

On each occasion we were greeted by Della Seta, our host was invariably gracious if rather formal, impeccably well-dressed, the picture of Italian aristocracy. But no allocation was offered; it seemed as though our repeated visits were in vain. We watched as Tenuta di Gracciano’s scores inched ever higher, clearing the 90-point hurdle with ease. With all the improvements to the facility and to the vineyards, we knew were this was going.

On our third visit, after a lengthy lunch and tasting, we again asked for an allocation, but Della Seta demurred one more time.

Enough was enough. We made him an offer he couldn’t turn down — we’d take 100 cases every year for the next three years, regardless of weather, or of scores. We didn’t see it as a gamble, we told him, because we’d seen the improvements and knew the wines were exceptional. Listening intently to our pleas, Della Seta’s face softened. He extended his hand — we shook. Then we were ushered into old, brick-lined bottle cellar where he pointed to an empty shelf. “OK. That’s your new home.”

Each year, bottles earmarked for WineAccess go right from the bottling line to our very own shelf in Tenuta di Gracciano’s cellars. Those bottles don’t move until WineAccess members, on days like today, hit the “Buy” button.

The 2013 is vivid, deep ruby red in color. Intricate aromas of cherry, plum skin, and purple floral notes leap from the glass. Intensely complex on the entry, with a dazzling dark-fruited core, giving way to ripe cherry and savory tobacco leaf spice tinged with high-toned whispers of mint and dried thyme. Supple and fine-grained tannins are perfectly integrated, underscored by mouthwatering acidity and a lengthy, bright berry finish.

94 points for this Wine Enthusiast “Cellar Selection.” Compared to $30 on release, just $22.99/bottle today on this WineAccess PRE-ARRIVAL exclusive — direct from the cool brick cellars in Montepulciano. Only 200 cases.