2013 Uccelliera Rapace Toscana IGT 750 ml

Uccelliera’s “Riserva” Vineyard … Brunello by Another Name

Many believe Andrea Cortonesi’s Uccelliera to be Brunello’s greatest estate. Several days ago, Signor Cortonesi’s importer offered WineAccess a gift in the form of a 60-bottle allocation of the 2010 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, the only Riserva of the vintage to earn 98 points from both Parker’s Wine Advocate and James Suckling.

For those of you who were quick to hit the Buy Button, you’re in for a treat.

There are a couple reasons why the Uccelliera “Riserva” is one of the biggest, boldest, and most sumptuous Brunello in nearly every vintage. First, Cortonesi is a master of criomaceration, a cellar technique that calls for 4-5 days of cold maceration at 52-55 degrees (50% of the fermentation takes place at low temperature), extracting dark color and wild-berry purity while minimizing the addition of sulfur dioxide.

Second, as every world-class winemaker will tell you, great wines are made in the vineyard, not the cellar. Andrea concurs. The vineyard responsible for the Uccelliera “Riserva” is the prize of Montalcino. The soils on this highest perch of the estate are a rugged mix of sand and clay. A southeast exposure provides plenty of sunlight and steady breezes take the bite out of the summer sun. The deep root structure of vines planted in 1975 allows them to shrug off hydric stress in even the driest growing seasons.

Still, despite all of the accolades and 98-point ratings, Andreas Cortonesi is well aware of the fiscal challenge his greatest Brunello poses for his small Montalcino estate. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the Uccelliera “Riserva” spends 30 months in cask before bottling, and another 12-18 months in the cellar before the wine is released. As a result, despite high demand, Cortonesi limits his “Riserva” production to just 400-500 cases, directing much of the remaining production off the vineyard to Montalcino’s most exquisite and sought-after bargain, the Uccelliera “Rapace.”

The early press out of Montalcino suggests that 2013 will be the appellation’s next superb vintage. If Andrea Cortonesi’s newest release of “Rapace” is any indication, this is certainly the case at Uccelliera.

The 2013 Uccelliera “Rapace” is a deep, dark, polished blend of 70% Sangiovese (drawn from the “Riserva” vineyard), 20% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Brilliant ruby-red in color with purple inflection. Intense and complex nose, infused with notes of inky blackberry and blueberry jam and Asian spice. Powerful yet supple and pliant on the attack, silken in texture, filled with black cherry and crushed black fruits, finishing with soft, dusty tannins. The 2013 “Rapace” is drinking beautifully now, but like all of the great wines drawn from the Uccelliera “Riserva” vineyard, this one will age gracefully well into the 2020s.

$45 on release. At $29 today, as good as it ever gets on the high-elevation hillsides of Montalcino. Shipping included on 4.