2014 Bruna Grimaldi Camilla Barolo 750 ml

A “Drink Tonight” Value Barolo

Azienda Bruna Grimaldi has followed the path that has led so many traditional Barolo estates to distinction: It was rooted in raising grapes and making bulk wines until an ambitious family member decided to push the operation to a place where it had not yet been. In the Grimaldi family, that was Bruna, who took over in the 1999 vintage along with her husband, Franco Fiorini. Nearly two decades later, this is one of Barolo’s top value producers. This 2014 Bruna Grimaldi “Camilla” Barolo hails from the family’s best vineyard, which sits above 725 feet elevation, just north of Serralunga d’Alba. Elegant and perfumed, showing morello cherry, leather, and cameroon tobacco in the glass. James Suckling praised the “neat and succulent energy” of the 2014 Camilla, which he awarded 94 points, and recommended as a “drink or hold.” At $34.99, this is fantastic price for a Barolo fit for the short term, or for the cellar.

Since its founding six decades ago, Azienda Bruna Grimaldi has evolved along with the region of Barolo: It started as a farm from which Bruna’s uncle would sell grapes and her father would sell his wines by the liter. But under Bruna’s leadership the estate blends modernity and tradition by focusing on single vineyards while adhering to traditional Barolo techniques.

This “Camilla” Barolo hails from Bruna Grimaldi’s top vineyard in the hills of Grinzane Cavour, a site she inherited from her father’s side of the family. Her team includes her husband Franco and son Simone, and works with input from respected Piedmont agronomist Gian Piero Romana and consulting winemaker Beppe Caviano.

Grimaldi and her husband Fiorini, produce three distinct wines—Badarina, Bricco Ambrogio, and Camilla—from three locations: the vineyards in Serralunga that Bruna inherited from her mother, the vineyard in Roddi that she and Franco purchased, and the family’s original property in Grinzane Cavour. Situated at 725-825 feet of elevation and oriented to the south and south-west, Camilla is located alongside the winery itself, and is considered the family’s top vineyard.

Grimaldi’s techniques in the field and in the cellar are an homage to Barolo tradition: No chemicals are used to control pests or weeds or mold. The grapes are harvested and selected by hand. After fermenting with 15-20 days of skin contact, the wine is aged for 24-30 months in tonneau and large barrels. Boasting pronounced dried fruit and herbs, a deep garnet color, and pronounced floral elements, this is a precise and firm Barolo that delivers a ton of value for the money, whether it is destined for the dinner table or the cellar.