2014 Chateau Chasse Spleen Moulis Bordeaux 750 ml

An Indian Summer Gift

At dusk, under a canopy of emerging stars, there is no sight more beautiful than the warmly-lit Chateau Chasse-Spleen—an estate nestled among pristine rows of perfect vines. The only thing missing in this picture of course, is you, holding a glass of the 2014 Chateau Chasse Spleen Moulis—an opulent Cabernet-heavy Bordeaux blend. At this Cru Bourgeois estate half way between Margaux and Saint-Julien, the glistening dark-purple Cabernet, Merlot and Petit Verdot berries harvested in 2014 were never so concentrated, pure, and vibrant. That year, a fantastic Indian summer yielded a red with even greater power than those of neighboring Margaux, buttressed by silky, suave tannins. 93 points from James Suckling, who raved: “A very elegant, fresh and classical wine with a lot of energy and drive on the finish.” Released at $55, just $45 per bottle for one of the finest releases from this tiny Médoc hamlet.

Château Chasse-Spleen, the most famous and decorated producer of Moulis-en-Médoc, has been run by powerful women for two generations now. When the estate (whose history dates to the 16th century) was purchased by the Merlaut family in 1976, Jacques Merlaut managed the property with his daughter, Bernadette Villars. With the help of her mentor, famed enologist Émile Peynaud, she modernized the facilities, enlarged the vineyards, and increased vine density, all while keeping prices reasonable. Within years, collectors were adding cases of Chasse-Spleen to their cellars and the château’s matron was one of Bordeaux’s most beloved figures.

When Bernadette and her husband died tragically in a hiking accident in the Pyrenees in 1992, her daughter Claire returned to the château to take on her mother’s work. Aided by her sister Céline, she has proved a brilliant steward, as fierce and as much of a perfectionist as the late Bernadette.

The estate lies between Margaux and Saint-Julien, with 30-year-old vines planted to some of the most exceptional and varied terroir in Moulis. The Merlot gains its velvety, feminine tannins from deep limestone soils, while Cabernet Sauvignon thrives on Pyrenean gravel, lending freshness and mineral complexity.

Watching the vines throughout the 2014 growing season, the winemaking team at Chasse-Spleen greeted September and October with cheers of joy, as those months ushered in one of the most magnificent Indian summers in memory. The warm, dry weather allowed for extended hang time, granting extraordinary fruit concentration to grapes as well as polished tannins.

The critics rejoiced at the success of the 2014 vintage as well. In its vintage report, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate declared that Moulis’ best offerings were “crowned by a wonderful Château Chasse-Spleen.”

If you buy just one 2014 Bordeaux from the northern Médoc, make this it.

Jonathan Cristaldi

Editor-in-Chief, Wine Access

Contributing Writer, Food & Wine