2014 Chateau Lafleur du Roy Cuvee Excellence Pomerol 750 ml

The Mayor’s Wine

We can’t say whether or not Yvon Dubost had an “in” when selecting his center-cut vineyard back in 1957. What we can say is that the former mayor of Pomerol chose well.

Planted on 9 acres of Pomerol’s legendary red clay and gravel soil, south-facing Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc ripen exceedingly well here. In 2014, the best vintage Bordeaux has seen since 2010, the mayor’s 45-year-old vines turned out a rich, velvety offering that stands shoulder to shoulder with bottles more than 2X the price. Here’s why.

Spring on the Right Bank was warmer than average and saw the vines off to an early, prosperous start. Then things got bumpy. Temperatures dropped during the summer months — particularly in July and August — while humidity rose. Growers who wished for success had to take it into their own hands. At Château Lafleur du Roy, Yvon Dubost’s son, Laurent (who now owns and manages the property), practically slept amongst the vines, dropping green fruit aggressively and constantly thinning canopies to promote air-flow and prevent rot.

In September, the young Dubost got a break from Mother Nature. The sun came out, and stayed out, as temperatures rose. The vines sprang to life and the vintage did a 180, squashing fears that 2014 would turn out like 2013. Harvest for Merlot began under turquoise skies in late September while Cabernet Sauvignon hung on the vine until mid-October. At Lafleur du Roy Laurent Dubost’s hard work earlier in the season had put him far ahead of many of his neighbors — Merlot clusters were tiny and highly concentrated, and Cabernet Sauvignon was thick-skinned and a striking jet black in color.

Deep, dark ruby to the rim, the 2014 Château Lafleur du Roy Cuvée Excellence shows youthful aromas of cherry, black currant, truffle, and leather. SILKY on entry, like blackberry velvet, accented by hints of chocolate and mocha, and braced by a supple tannic backbone. Finishing long and elegantly with layers of dark berry fruit. Showing beautifully now, but the potential here is enormous. Dividends will be payed to the patient.

92 points and a “Cellar Selection” from Wine Enthusiast. Just $35/bottle for what may be Pomerol’s finest value of 2014. Bargain-hunters, don’t sleep on this one.