2014 Domaine Bonnardot Chassagne-Montrachet 750 ml

Tanzer’s “Classic” White Burgundy Vintage

After three consecutive short harvests (2011-2013) ravaged by hail and frost, the greatest names of Chassagne- and Puligny-Montrachet grimaced as they took stock of the value of their assets and their revenues. Even as land and bottle prices skyrocket on the limestone hillsides of the Côte de Beaune, it’s hard to keep cash flowing when yields are down 30-80%.

The winter of 2013-2014 was mild and dry, as was early spring. The vines had gotten off to such a fast start that, in mid-April, Christophe Bonnardot considered moving up his traditional August vacation plans, thinking he might be picking Chardonnay when he had hoped to be hiking in the Massif Central. But then, thankfully, Burgundy cooled off. Six weeks of chilly, wet weather set Bonnardot’s mind at ease. First, the vines needed the rain. Second, flowering had been pushed back, suggesting a normal harvest date sometime in mid-September. There would be no need to cancel his travel plans.

When we visited Burgundy in early June, the mood in Puligny and Chassagne was buoyant. Flowering had gone off without a hitch. The Chardonnay set, while not copious, was above the norm. If the weather held out, 2014 had the makings of an excellent vintage both quantitatively and qualitatively. For the next four weeks, right up until June 27th, Bonnardot’s priceless holdings on the center cut of hillside above Chassagne-Montrachet were bathed in warm sunshine, all but eliminating any early-season risk of mildew.

All was perfect. Perhaps too perfect. And then, as had been the case in each of the previous years, Nature brought Christophe Bonnardot to his knees.

On the evening of Saturday, June 28, half the village of Chassagne-Montrachet was glued to meteofrance.com. The other half stood outside on covered patios, or peered out of third floor windows, watching as the black clouds rolled in. When the lightning struck in the distance, lighting up the sky, the Bonnardots, Ramonets, Leflaives, and Niellons already knew what was coming. The first drops of rain splattered cobblestones like peach-sized water balloons. Then the thunder grew closer and closer as the sky opened up. Once again, a massive thunderstorm pelted the Côte de Beaune, rain and hail ravaging vines. Up to half of the potential crop was lost in just a couple of hours!

Christophe did as he and his family have always done in such circumstances: He took the red ink in stride and returned to the vines. July was a crapshoot. Some days were warm and sunny, others cold and rainy. August turned unseasonably cold, with daytime highs struggling to top 70 degrees.

Bonnardot must have shaken his head, thinking back to late March when he wondered if he’d be canceling his August travel plans due to an early call to harvest. Now picking certainly wouldn’t begin until mid-September.

The last days of August and the first two weeks of September were glorious. Turquoise skies. Warm days and cool nights. Bonnardot began picking in the second week of September. Chardonnay berries were loaded with sugar, yet acids were vivid and electrifying. The tiny crop drawn off his Chassagne holdings was perfectly clean, making for some of the most exquisite white Burgundies ever produced by this estate. Despite or perhaps because of the season’s challenges, 2014 is today considered by many, including Wine Spectator, as possibly the best vintage for white Burgundy since 1985!

Steve Tanzer, the stingiest and most respected Burgundy critic on the planet, didn’t mince words in his vintage report: “For lovers of classic white Burgundies, 2014 is clearly a vintage to buy.” Tanzer hailed 2014’s “unusually consistent” quality, and Christophe Bonnardot’s Chassagne-Montrachet is the perfect example.

The 2014 Domaine Bonnardot Chassagne-Montrachet is simply beautiful. The nose is crystalline pure with citrus peel, pear, white flowers, and mint oil. The palate is impeccably balanced with intense citrus fruit, white peach, and crunchy wet stones, the acid fits perfectly with plenty of vim and vigor on the finish. Extraordinary for a village wine. Drink now-2025.

Just 60 cases were imported to the U.S., the lion’s share earmarked for the likes of NYC’s Le Bernardin, Per Se, Bar Boulud, and Eleven Madison Park. After those guys, WineAccess comes first. 180 bottles are up for grabs. $44/bottle. Shipping included on 4. If you’re a Burgundy lover, this is NOT to be missed!