2014 Holus Bolus Syrah Franc de Pied Sta. Rita Hills 750 ml

Peter Hunken’s Monster Hit from Santa Barbara’s “Exceptional” 2014 Vintage

When Wine Enthusiast published its “Best of Year 2016” issue, it blew the lid off one of the best-kept secrets in the Sta. Rita Hills. After tasting 22,000 wines throughout the year, the Enthusiast critics went wild for the vibrant, beautifully concentrated 2013 Holus Bolus Syrah, putting it right at the top of “The Enthusiast 100 of 2016” list as the #6 best wine overall, pinning on a dazzling 95 points and an “Editor’s Choice” commendation to boot. We’re still smarting from the allocation cut we took as a result.

In 2014, the Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Barbara County at large experienced a sensational growing season. When Antonio Galloni described “the very best 2014s” as “delicate, nuanced and, in some cases, extraordinarily beautiful,” we think this 2014 Holus Bolus Syrah is what he had in mind. Winemaker Peter Hunken capitalized on that special harvest with a plan to craft a Syrah that would match the sleekness and concentrated purity of the 2013 effort. But this time he would draw it solely from the Franc de Pied portion of the John Sebastiano Vineyard, a block known for producing big-shouldered powerhouses with mouthwatering savoriness. Wine Enthusiast once again awarded the 2014 Holus Bolus Syrah Franc de Pied Sta. Rita Hills a rave 95-point score and “Editor’s Choice” designation, leading us to believe that the winery has yet another monster hit on their hands.

Hunken is a rangy, intense, yet understated guy who learned the art of crafting California Syrahs from the top hands in the business. From 2001 to 2006 he worked at Stolpman Vineyards under star winemaker Sashi Moorman, whose full-throttle yet beautifully chiseled powerhouses have piled up some of the biggest scores from Robert Parker and Stephen Tanzer on the West Coast. Moorman and Hunken hit it off, and in 2003 started a side project together, Holus Bolus, to focus on small-production Syrah.

In 2008, Moorman and Hunken amiably parted ways and Hunken took over Holus Bolus with his wife Amy Christine, a merchant at Kermit Lynch and one of only a handful of female Masters of Wine in the United States. Under their stewardship, the cephalopod-emblazoned label has turned out savory, gorgeously supple Syrahs that have been nothing short of astonishing.

The Franc de Pied block is one of three that make up the regular Holus Bolus Syrah. The vines are own-rooted and grow some of the smallest clusters Hunken works with, making for massive concentration. Perched at the far eastern edge of the windy, fog-shrouded Sta. Rita Hills appellation, the area is cooled by ocean winds that blow directly across the vineyard’s steep slopes. In 2014, Hunken isolated 100 cases of the Alban clone, grown on rocky clay-loam soil, to make a single-vineyard Syrah that has it all: balance, opulence, vibrancy, and precision.

The growing season’s mild winter and warm spring led to early bud break. While daytime highs rarely topped 80 degrees and nighttime lows often plunged into the 40s, the arid conditions and steady breezes off the Pacific accelerated the maturation cycle. The call to harvest was one of the earliest in memory. Still, acids held firm, and even at comparatively low sugar levels, the berries were pert and ultra-sweet.

Peter Hunken’s 2014 Franc de Pied release is one of the most elegant, gorgeously honed Syrahs — at ANY price — of the vintage. Inky purple to the rim with bright, piercing aromas of black raspberries, olive, rosemary, and pepper. Rich, compact, and polished on the attack, packed with crushed-red-fruit preserves, finishing soft and supple, with elegant Northern Rhône vibrancy.

Wine Enthusiast raved, lobbing on 95 points, depleting most of the small 2014 production. Just 360 bottles remain — earmarked for WineAccess and up for grabs for only a few short hours. $34.99 today. Shipping included on 4 bottles or more.