2014 By Jeff Carrel Les Darons Languedoc 750 ml

Enologist Jeff Carrel’s 2014 “Les Darons”: Wine Advocate’s Top-Rated “Everyday” Red Since 2010

In the last 5 years, fewer than 10 French “everyday” reds have been accorded 94-point potential by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. Jeff Carrel’s powerhouse new release of “Les Darons” — an extravagant old-vine blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan — is one of them.

We will likely never know if it was the Greeks or Romans that first planted vines in France, but we do know that some of the first vineyards were planted in Languedoc. While Languedoc is France’s largest appellation, in many ways it’s also the country’s most poorly understood. The quality of the region’s wines runs the gamut from “gros rouge” — a rough, tannic red that locals guzzle to the tune of 2-3 bottles per day — to some of the richest and most enchanting reds of Europe.

The terroir of the Languedoc is varied, but at its best it’s far more similar to the soil composition of the northern Rhône than of the south. Deep, dark, sleek Syrah flourishes on the rocky terraces above Larzac. Grenache tends to be more high-toned than what’s generally found in and around Châteauneuf-du-Pape, making for wonderfully floral cuvées, often sprinkled with white pepper. Carignan adds color and muscle, particularly when vines are greater than 40 years of age.

Fueled by Robert Parker’s unbridled enthusiasm for the potential of Languedoc, in the early 1990s a band of Languedocien winegrowers began crafting high-end cuvées that often outpointed Châteauneuf-du-Pape — and were priced accordingly. But from our perspective, most compelling are the superb “everyday” reds crafted by a handful of artisanal producers in excellent vintages — none more sensational than the critically acclaimed “Les Darons” from enologist Jeff Carrel.

“Les Darons” means “The Parents” in the slang of the Parisian suburbs in which Carrel grew up. He chose the name for this cuvée due to the age of the old vines from which the 2014 “Les Darons” was drawn. It’s comprised of 60% Grenache, 25% Carignan, and 15% Syrah — all grown on the parched, high-elevation terraces above Laure-Minervois, every row planted before 1975. Some are now approaching 75 years of age. While the AOC allows for yields of up to almost 4 tons per acre, Carrel’s old vines barely eked out 2 in 2014, accounting for the intense, wild-berry concentration of what we — and Parker’s Wine Advocate — believe to be one of the most extraordinary bargain reds of the last five years.

This morning, we’ll let Parker’s Wine Advocate do all the talking. Given today’s price tag, the following 91- to 94-point review is one for the ages:

“A wine that blew me away was the 2014 Languedoc Les Darons by Jeff Carrel. Still in barrel, it offers thrilling notes of black and blue fruits, violets, and peppery spice to go with a medium to full-bodied, elegant, seamless profile on the palate... fermented and aged all in concrete tank, it has striking purity, integrated acidity and a great finish. It should drink nicely on release and have 7-8 years of overall longevity.” Anticipated maturity: “2015-2022.”

$20 on release. Only $16 on WineAccess. Our last 1,200 bottles just hit port.