2014 LIOCO Chardonnay Estero Russian River Valley 750 ml

2014 Lioco Chardonnay “Estero”: When The French Laundry Comes Callin

The 2014 Chardonnay vintage was spectacular in Russian River. The third consecutive drought year began with fine weather at flowering, leading to a healthy fruit set. While berry and cluster size was small, each of the Big Five reported that natural concentration far outpaced the preceding two years. Absent any dramatic temperature swings, Chardonnay matured incrementally through the summer months.

But, as we’d learn from Matt Licklider at Lioco as we tasted what he and superstar Chardonnay-maker John Raytek believe to be the most powerful and complex “Estero” to date, cold nights in August proved to be vitally important. Lioco made the call to harvest on September 10th, almost two weeks earlier than the norm. While finished alcohol would be a Burgundian 12.6%, the tiny berries were loaded with sugar. Acids were electrifying at 6.6 grams per liter.

Many Russian River wineries like to claim that their Chardonnays are “Meursault-like.” Just a few truly are. Raytek’s 2014 “Estero” is one of them. And if you don’t believe us, just trust The French Laundry.

Raytek’s cellar protocol takes a page out of a Domaine Leflaive script. Twenty tons were hand-harvested on September 10th, 11th, 13th, & 22nd. Sorting was extremely rigorous, first in the vines, then on the sorting table. Berries were then “broken” before being pressed. Gently fermented on the lees for nine months (without stirring) in larger-format, neutral oak casks to preserve fruit purity. Once the slow malolactic fermentation was completed, the wine was cross-flow filtered before bottling.

Despite the modest price tag, the 2014 Lioco “Estero” is one of the most refined, complex, and mineral Russian River Chardonnays of the vintage. Pale green-gold. Piercing mineral aromas of apple, pear, and quince, tinged with anise. Richly concentrated yet wonderfully refreshing and light on its feet, filled with a tightly wound mix of apple, pear, citronelle, and beeswax, finishing with terrific Meursaultien tension and persistence. Gorgeous on release, drink now or lay down for 6-8 years.

Could this be the finest $35 Chardonnay in America? We think so. Apparently so have the folks at 6640 Washington Street in Yountville! Shipping included on 4.