2014 Seghesio Family Vineyards Maffei Vineyard Zinfandel 750 ml

Rare 90-Year-Old Russian River Vines

Seghesio Family Vineyards tends and produces some of the finest old-vine Zinfandel in Sonoma County, so it takes a rare vineyard — one like this 90-year-old Maffei Ranch — to produce the kind of prestigious old-vine Zinfandel that captures their attention. This 2014 Seghesio Maffei Vineyard Zinfandel Russian River is sourced from the vineyard first planted in 1928 by Umberto Maffei. The ancient vines at this parcel produce some of the most rich and aromatic Zinfandel in Russian River Valley — fruit that Ted Seghesio finally was able to secure in time for Sonoma County’s finest vintages in years. Seghesio’s praise for the 2014 vintage — an “embarrassment of riches for Zin” — also captures the partnership between one of California’s marquee Zinfandel producers and a historic grower. There are only two ways to experience this wine: at the winery for $48, or via Wine Access, for $32.99 a bottle.

Walking with Joanne Maffei through the ancient rows of Zinfandel at Maffei Ranch, the first thing that catches your eye are the twisting and gnarled vines themselves, which were planted by her Italian immigrant grandfather Umberto in 1928. These ancient plants not only show their age, but also Joanne’s painstaking work, which keeps them producing some of the area’s best Zinfandel nearly a century into their lives: Seghesio’s winegrowing team calls the Maffei vineyard one of the most meticulously-farmed properties they have ever seen. It took years for the Seghesio team to finally secure Maffei fruit, which they draw from blocks 3, 4, and 9 of the 19.3-acre vineyard.

Maffei is a perfect match for Seghesio, a winery that Wine Spectator says “embodies the rise of Sonoma’s wine industry,” and also has an origin story straight out of American folklore. Edoardo Seghesio left Piedmont, Italy, in 1886 and settled in the Italian Swiss Colony nestled in Sonoma County. In 1893, Edoardo wed Angela Vasconi, the niece of the Colony’s manager. The couple purchased 56 untouched acres in northern Alexander Valley two years later. Since then, Seghesio has methodically expanded their holdings to include some of the most extraordinary Zinfandel parcels in Sonoma County.

The fact that Ted Seghesio had designs on fruit from Mazzei Ranch for several years speaks volumes about the quality and character of this historic family-held vineyard, and the result of the partnership is classic Sonoma County, in every sense: It is dark-fruited, aromatic, and lively Zinfandel with gorgeous high tones and spice. This is not just top-quality Zinfandel, but the story of Sonoma County in a bottle. Lovers of Zin and California classics, don’t miss out.

Jonathan Cristaldi

Editor-in-Chief, Wine Access