2015 Château Haut-Dina Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 750 ml

This seamless, supple Château Haut-Dina leaves no doubt that 2015 is among the all-time great bargain-hunting vintages of Bordeaux. Making a terrific argument for case-buys with 91 points from Wine Enthusiast, bursting with dark “fine, ripe fruit,” this hits the Right Bank value jackpot.

Crafted by fifth-generation winemaker Christophe Lavau and his wife Marie-Jo Lavau, this traditional Merlot-forward blend is cultivated in the clay soils of Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, “a prolongation of Saint-Émilion with vineyard prices that are 10 times less expensive,” according to Decanter. The nose alone—a seductive, plush, and precise mixture of violet, currant candy, and plum—offers an intellectual complexity far exceeding the value price.

Sleek with angular tannins and just the right amount of natural acidity to slice through the fruit, a full-bodied infusion of cassis takes center stage with nuances of espresso, soy, and graphite. Excellent farming by the Lavaus has softened and tamed the appellation’s tannins to ensure a latte-like smoothness and richness that rewards drinking today or in four years. But after the first bottle, you may not be able to wait that long.

We were at La Tupina in Bordeaux, with an old friend who happened to be traveling nearby. Over veal and foie gras, we reprised an argument we’ve had since college. Our dear friend—who has done quite well for herself in corporate law—drives an S-Class, sent her son to Harvard, and insists the only Bordeaux worth drinking is $100 or more.

We, in our worn loafers, having arrived by bus, were prepared to passionately take up the opposite side, but we didn’t have to—our waiter did. With the genteel tact the French are so well-known for, the server snorted at our friend’s contention while picking up an empty plate. Then he disappeared, leaving us to wonder if he had been genuinely offended.

A moment later, our two glasses were filled with something ruby-hued and garnet-edged, sending up an engrossing aromatic profile of cigar box seasoning and crushed fruit. Then the waiter… waited.

As much as she sensed the trap coming, our friend couldn’t lie. “It’s fabulous,” she said. “2015?” she added, showing that she was in the possession of a very good palate.

“Yes,” said the waiter, in thickly accented English, as he placed the bottle on the table with an emphatic thud. “And it is zertainly not one hundred... bucks!”

The bottle of 2015 Château Haut-Dina that evening was gratis, we discovered when the bill came—French service does have its virtues after all. We wasted no time the following morning tracking down the actual price, and once we did, maxed out the possible allocation. We can’t offer the same deal as our waiter exactly, but at just $18 per bottle for a Right Bank bottle of this splendor, it’s the kind of deal where the more you buy, the more you save.

Oh, and that argument from college—officially over.