2015 Domaine Santa Duc Châteauneuf-du-Pape Habemus Papam 750 ml

“Long, Assertive and Driving” Châteauneuf

Since arriving in 2010, Gras has received glowing appraisals from the Wine Advocate, which says he is producing “some of the most compelling examples of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.” The 2015 Domaine Santa Duc Châteauneuf-du-Pape Habemus Papam shows that rival producers have plenty to fear—and that Rhône lovers have plenty to celebrate. Habemus Papam is a gem whose 94 points from both Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and James Suckling place it alongside stalwart Châteauneuf producers like Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Domaine Pierre Usseglio, floored by its structure—the hallmark of long-lived wines. “It is the structure that really impresses. Long, assertive and driving, it finishes with succulent grippy appeal,” says Suckling, while Parker encourages buyers to “lay it down for a few years.” From the southern Rhône 2015 vintage rated “outstanding” by the Advocate, this is the kind of up-and-comer Châteauneuf that belongs in everyone’s cellar. $49.99 each with shipping included on 3.

This Wine Advocate summary of Domaine Santa Duc really does manage to say it all in two sentences: "Gigondas-based Yves Gras has quietly grown his holdings in Châteauneuf-du-Pape to six hectares, from which he's producing four separate cuvées. I'm sure it will hurt some feelings to say an outsider like Gras is producing some of the most compelling examples of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but keep in mind these are generally tiny-production gems and not easy to track down." In other words, there’s a new player in town, and he’s good, but don’t worry: He doesn’t make much wine—yet.

Yves Gras enjoyed a coming out of sorts two decades ago when Robert Parker bestowed a 95-point score on one of his Gigondas wines and called him “the reigning superstar of Gigondas.” The expertise that earned him that accolade has translated beautifully down the hill from Gigondas in Châteauneuf, where he has made wine since 2010. Habeus Papam is drawn from a diverse trifecta of vineyards in Châteauneuf: Les Saintes Vierges in the east of the appellation, Le Pradel in the north, and La Font du Pape close to the town.

Gras ferments the Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Counoise from the three vineyards in whole clusters, then ages the blend in large, lightly used foudres and clay amphorae for 18 months. The resulting wine is exactly what earned him star status in Châteauneuf in just six vintages: A ripe, ruby-colored, smoky and savory wine that can compete with the best of the southern Rhône.