2015 Matthiasson Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 750 ml

Bailing Ourselves Out at Gramercy Tavern

There’s something about drinking elite Cabernet with a perfectly grilled burger that never fails to excite us. On our last visit to New York, we headed straight for Danny Meyer’s mecca of American cuisine, Gramercy Tavern, skipping a reservation, and opting for the bar to get our fix. Before we were even handed menus we ordered two Tavern Burgers, medium-rare, with the requisite thick-cut bacon. We didn’t take much longer with the wine list. 

We knew we had to have the 2015 Matthiasson Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Over the years, we’ve had the good fortune to enjoy Steve and Jill Matthiasson’s standout wines at several of the nation’s top restaurants, and it is always dazzling. The 2015 was no exception.

Maybe it’s our low-brow/high-brow, Andy Warhol-esque leanings, calling us to make high art out of the seemingly mundane? That might be a stretch. More likely, it’s the way Matthiasson’s Cab brings out the flavor in the juicy Tavern Burgers. With textbook richness, energy, and elegance—Matthiasson Cabs are never plodding or flabby—the 2015 Napa Valley lifted the savory flavors and added mouthwatering depth to every bite. We were in heaven. 

That is until the bill came. At $215 on the list at Gramercy, the 2015 Napa Valley was about to blow up our dinner budget. (Julia from finance, if you are reading this, please don’t stop now, we promise this ends well). 

We immediately made a call to Steve Matthiasson, making every effort to lock in an allocation for Wine Access members. Thankfully, Steve obliged, sending us a handful of bottles, loaded with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant, layered with fresh mint, tan tobacco, and bay leaf, offering a delectable—but not overwhelming—experience. If you can’t make it to Gramercy, or if you want to save a few bucks (sorry, Julia) we recommend firing up the grill and lightly charring some Angus burgers to serve alongside this fantastic offering. 

Matthiasson’s 2015 Napa Valley Cabernet manages to offer such incredible richness and depth without slipping into the overripe, exaggerated territory of so many Napa Cabs by virtue of its cool-climate origins. Sourced from five separate sites, including the chilly Dead Fred vineyard in Coombsville, the 2015 shows all of the depth of flavor and liveliness of Cabernet that has ripened slowly over a prolonged growing season.

It also displays the touch of a master. 

Steve Matthiasson launched his consulting firm in 2002. His reputation quickly grew in Napa Valley, landing him gigs at Araujo, Spottswoode, Dalla Valle, Chappellet, Rudd, David Arthur, and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. In what seemed like an overnight success story, Matthiasson became one of the brightest stars in viticulture and winemaking. 

It didn’t surprise us when the San Francisco Chronicle named Steve its “Winemaker of the Year” in 2014 in a glowing 2,500-word profile. The Chronicle predicted Steve would lead a charge to “rewrite the trajectory of California wine.” Warren Winiarski of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars added, “He’s looking for something more permanent, more perennial, more in keeping with what this beverage is meant to do for human beings.”

By our count, Steve’s 2015 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon accomplishes that feat. While it’s sure to be a critical darling when the reviews are published—it’s already been featured on the cover of Wine & Spirits Magazine’s December 2018 issue, and landed a coveted spot on the magazine’s Top 100 Wineries list—it, more importantly, stays true to its origins and the vision of its maker. Simply put, this is what you want out of a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.