2016 Bodegas Olarra Clasico Gran Reserva Rioja 750 ml

Grown in what might be the greatest Rioja vintage ever—Wine Advocate has never rated one higher—the 2016 Bodegas Olarra Clasico is awash in the deep red fruit, leather, clove, and earthy notes that come with perfectly aged Gran Reserva. Crafted by a Wine Access favorite producer, boasting a recent 94-point score and priced at $55 on release, it’s also nearly impossible to find. 

When our wine team first brought Olarra’s Clasico Gran Reserva into the office, they still had flight-inflicted bags under their eyes and Rioja dust on their boots. We’re glad they came straight in, because the wine was an immediate sensation. It beguiled us with an intoxicating, classical bouquet of ripe black raspberry and plum tinged with wild herbs. 

Founded in 1973, Bodegas Olarra has been a mainstay in the subzone of Rioja Alta for nearly half a century, turning out top-flight reds from their striking winery, which sits across the winding Ebro River from the picturesque town of Logroño.

You can’t talk about Bodegas Olarra without talking about the stunning architecture. Designed by Juan Antonio Ridruejo, the iconic three-winged building (picture the Mercedes-Benz badge) is one of the most breathtaking sights in Spanish wine. Its most prominent feature is the roof of the barrel room, which is made up of 111 hexagonal domes, whose role is much more than aesthetic—they’re designed to prevent sharp temperature changes in the cellar. 

This is absolutely crucial for Rioja, where careful aging is the crux of the process. The 2016 Clasico Reserva, which comprises 80% Tempranillo and the rest Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano, spent 24 patient months in Bodegas Olarra’s cellar, biding its time in oak barrels and casks ranging from brand-new to five years of age. Further aging in bottle mellowed the wine beautifully. 

Now, nine years after harvest, all the gorgeous spice, leather, and toasted notes of great Rioja are deepening. The wine is drinking perfectly now, but will stand up in the cellar for years—although chances are slim that you can keep your hands off for anywhere close to that long.