2016 Bodegas Olarra Laztana Gran Reserva Rioja 750 ml

Gran Reservas from Rioja’s greatest vintages are some of the biggest no-brainer buys out there—and doubly so if they’re from the 2016 vintage.

Wine Advocate doesn’t think there’s been a better year in the region. We have no reason to disagree.

The only problem is that ’16 Riojas are becoming scarce—or expensive, in the case of most late-release Gran Reservas—which makes Bodegas Olarra Laztana’s compelling wine a rare opportunity.

Alluring, exotic spices from long oak aging meet a deep well of soft cherry fruit enhanced by bottle age, plus bold, sappy concentration, courtesy of ancient Tempranillo vines. “This has the soul of old-school Rioja,” a Master Somm friend of ours told us—high praise from someone who treasures the style.

It’s not surprising to see this quality and value from Bodegas Olarra. For more than half a century, the winery has produced top-flight reds of impressive character, combining the region’s traditional winemaking methods with state-of-the-art technologies and cutting-edge design. The winery itself, which sits on the Ebro River in the heart of Logroño, is a monument to modern architecture.

Designed by Juan Antonio Ridruejo, the iconic three-winged building (picture the Mercedes-Benz badge) is one of the most breathtaking sights in Spanish wine. Its most prominent feature is the barrel-room roof, a remarkable assemblage of 111 hexagonal domes that go way beyond aesthetics: They’re designed to prevent sharp temperature changes in the cellar.

This is absolutely crucial for Rioja wines, which require careful aging. The 2016 Bodegas Olarra Laztana Gran Reserva, made from 90% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, and 5% Graciano, was aged for 27 months in new and used American and French barriques, then more than six years in bottle.

Today, all the gorgeous earthy, spicy, exotic notes of a fine traditional Gran Reserva have fallen into place beautifully. It’s drinking perfectly now, but will stand up in the cellar for years—although chances are slim that you can keep your hands off it for anywhere close to that long.