2016 Diego Conterno Barolo Piedmont 750 ml

The name “Conterno” in Barolo is like the name “Ferrari” in Modena or “Gucci” in Florence—a shorthand for class and high quality.

So in 2000, when Diego Conterno left Conterno-Fantino—a collector-favorite juggernaut he cofounded in 1982—the entire Piedmont region took notice, especially when he brought 20 acres of prime vineyards with him.

Today, Diego and his son Stefano craft some of our favorite wines in northwest Italy—and we aren’t alone. Vinous’ Antonio Galloni called them “one of Piedmont's most exciting emerging estates” and urged enophiles looking for an inside track on traditional Barolo to “check out these wines before they become better known.”

In Monforte d’Alba, on a steep, sun-drenched slope just up the hill from legendary Giacomo Conterno, Diego produces tiny quantities of superb Barolo. But unlike the wines of that other Conterno, his offerings won’t set you back anywhere near $200. 

His 2016 is our favorite yet, a highlight of one of Barolo’s best vintages of the decade. With a blend of Monforte’s classic power and Diego’s transparent, old-school winemaking, it’s absolutely thrilling.

The backbone of this Barolo is the legendary Ginestra cru. It’s one of the best vineyards in all of Barolo—“exceptional,” in Antonio Galloni’s words—and is known for profound wines with dark fruit, seductive spice, and classic Monforte ageworthiness. Those grapes are rounded out with fruit from two other sites, including San Giovanni—which Galloni rates as a “Noteworthy” vineyard—and San Pietro, both in Monforte d’Alba. 

Anyone who loves brisk, old-school reds should be all over this one. We love it right now, especially with some old-school egg pasta with ragù, but it’s also got the stuffing and bones to develop for another decade-plus.