2016 Domaine Coillot Gevery-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 750 ml

Sometimes you find things in the oddest places. Take our latest Burgundy discovery, tiny Domaine Coillot in Gevrey-Chambertin. The Vieilles Vignes (old-vine) bottling saw just 80 cases come to the US, and where did it catch our eye? Not at a top French eatery like Daniel or The French Laundry, but at Il Buco, the longstanding NYC Italian spot known for outstanding handmade pasta, arguably the best steak in the metropolis—and an amazingly savvy wine list.

Silky at the core, with a pleasant tannic grip around the edges, the Domaine Coillot is a beautifully structured testament to the high standards at this small second-generation estate. All the farming is done sustainably without any insecticides, pesticides, or herbicides. Harvest is by hand before careful destemming, and the fermentation under strict temperature control is carried out without any added yeasts, enzymes, or chaptalization. The vines are up to 65 years old, so yields are quite low—hence the tiny amount exported to the US.

What really caught our attention about Coillot’s GV VV (after the terrific price for a wine with this address) was its classicism. From the first sip we were enchanted by the intertwining flavors of wild cherry, earth, and leather on the palate, and how they evolved into exotic spices on the finish. This is a textbook example of how the finest Pinot Noir performs an exquisite balancing act between fruit and earth, perfume and palate, strength and finesse.

Like the other exclusive addresses in the Côte d’Or (Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Morey-St-Denis) the village of Gevrey proudly annexed the name of its most famous vineyard. Originally Champ de Bertin (meaning “Bert’s Field”), the Chambertin name commemorates the farmer who first planted vines there some nine hundred years ago.

Since then, Gevrey-Chambertin has become the source of some of the most sought-after wines in all of Burgundy. Its neighbors Chambolle and Marsannay might be known for their femininity and austerity, but Gevrey is prized for its sheer power and masculinity. And Coillot’s complex aromatics of black cherry, olive tapenade, sous bois, sweet spice, and crushed stones express exactly why this village is so important to Burgundy lovers.

A host of new names popped up in Burgundy in the early 2000s, but it’s quite rare to come across a new producer, let alone a head-turner from one of the premier villages in the Côte d’Or. We’re excited to share this terrific find with you and hope you’ll raise a glass to the history and craftsmanship that go into making a world-class Pinot.