2016 Domaine du Gros Nore Bandol Rouge 750 ml

A Hearty Cheers in Bandol

The South of France in summer: It’s all about sublime weather, a slow pace, and total relaxation.

The first few days of our last trip to the Midi had none of those things. The weather was miserable, our luggage got lost, and our itinerary got hopelessly mixed up. After that trifecta, we were desperate for the moment when things would start looking up.

We saw a glimmer of hope when we decided to visit the producer of one of our favorite South of France reds: the deep, rich, and rustic Domaine du Gros ‘Noré Bandol rouge, a wine that would brighten any red wine lover’s journey, and a five-star favorite of Wine Access members. But when we arrived, the winery seemed abandoned. 

Unwilling to accept another disappointment, we poked around the building until a strong, wizened grey-haired gentleman with a crooked nose popped his head out of the door. It was Alain Pascal, the owner and winemaker. He politely explained in French they were eating lunch, and if we wanted to taste we should come back in two hours (French lunches, you know).

We drove to the closest village and grabbed—well, sat down for—a two-hour meal of our own before heading back to Gros ‘Noré, where we found a scene nothing like the sleepy one we’d left: The heavy doors were flung wide open, and the air inside and out rang with the kind of boisterous conversation that only comes with free-flowing wine. The clouds parted on our mood as we sat down at one of the giant farm tables in the tasting room and chatted up some strangers.

Turns out they were Americans, too, and we were intrigued by their presence at the spectacular-yet-underrated Gros ‘Noré—it’s one of our favorite producers, but seemed a little out of the way for a family of tourists.

“We’re absolutely in love with their wines,” the woman told us, which they order from what she called “this great website…” At that precise moment, the scene went into super slo-mo, as she formed the words that would make everything about our trip—the weather woes, the lost clothes, and the travel tribulations—totally, completely, 100% worth it.  

“…called Wine Access.”

We raised our glasses and gave a cheers so hearty that it almost shattered the stemware. Then we escorted our new friends up to where Alain was pouring, introduced ourselves (through Alain’s wife, who speaks English), and bonded over a bottle of the 2016 Bandol Rouge.   

Gorgeously full-bodied, the 2016 erupts from the glass with black fruit, wild herbs, and striking depth and purity. Over time and with a good dose of air, this wine—from one of the top vintages in Southern France this century—gets more intriguing, blending herbal undertones and violets into its aromatic symphony before its long, tannin-driven finish. The 2016 Gros ‘Noré will thrill fans of Old World reds, and make Cabernet and Syrah lovers swoon. Avail yourself of it, then do what you will: Decant it to perfectly accompany a tomahawk ribeye, or cellar it for a decade or more.

As one of the top grape growers in France’s dreamy Bandol sub-zone of Provence, Domaine du Gros ‘Noré used to sell their fruit to greats like Domaine Ott and Château de Pibarnon. But now they keep it for themselves. None other than the New York Times’ Eric Asimov has included Gros ‘Noré as one of only three wineries worth a feature in two different Bandol-focused reviews recently. It’s is the smoky, savory, and age-worthy classic that Asimov lauded as “rustic and soulful.”

On its own—or accompanied by old or very, very new friends—Alain Pascal’s Gros Noré Bandol is pure pleasure.