2016 Xavier Monnot Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes Burgundy France 750 ml

While “Grand Cru” and “Premier Cru” in Burgundy can mean the difference between a $500+ bottle and $100 bottle, in Meursault, there are only Premier Cru sites and village-level vineyards. And the fact that there are no Grand Cru-designated vineyards in Meursault, “the heartland of white burgundy,” as Master of Wine Jancis Robinson calls it, means there are incredible values to be had. It’s also the subject of some real controversy. 

But incredible values first. Today’s 2016 Xavier Monnot hails from just three acres of the Les Charmes Premier Cru vineyard in Meursault—the storied village in the Côte de Beaune sandwiched between the towns of Puligny-Montrachet and Volnay. Les Charmes is a site prized by top producers like Domaine des Comtes Lafon, whose own 2016 Les Charmes sells for $240 and up. By contrast, today’s 2016 Xavier Monnot, also from Les Charmes, earned 93 points from the venerable Wine Spectator magazine and runs under $120.

On to the controversy. The best sites in Meursault emerge in the western slopes just outside the town, and continue up into steeper hillsides, where shallow soils encourage vigor and vines turn out lime-citrus-driven, gorgeous, racy whites. Gone are the days of the buttery, flashy Premier Cru Meursault, and while Monnot’s limestone soils and 40-60-year-old vines yield a broad, rich, and intensely mineral style (courtesy of tiny berries with excellent concentration) this rendition is sleek and taut, with dazzling spices courtesy of aging 12-14 months in roughly one-third new French oak.  

Critics the world over often find “grand cru-like quality,” among Premier Cru Meursault bottlings—particularly Decanter judges. And American-based sommeliers love to argue in favor of a Grand Cru designation for Meursault, typically pointing to Charmes as a prime example. Our own Master Sommelier Sur Lucero argues that Les Charmes is “the site that would make the top of the list during a re-classification.” 

But for now, the real issue facing lovers of white Burgundy from Meursault is the market demand for affordable Burgundy, especially during low-yielding vintages. And the few white Burgundies we’ve offered have proven explosively popular with Wine Access members—all of them selling out in less than a day. So, rest assured that demand will be high for this Monnot, because yields were indeed scarce.

The 2016 growing season in Burgundy produced a “seriously delicious vintage,” according to Master of Wine Jancis Robinson, however, “there is a serious shortage of wine,” due to several hail storms which devastated many vintners’ crops. Of what survived, the wines are pure, ripe, generous, concentrated, and lovely out of the gate. 

Burgundy collectors, Chardonnay lovers, and really anyone interested in beautifully made wine from the storied village of Meursault should take advantage of this offer which boasts all of the trappings of a Grand Cru.