2016 FEL Chardonnay Anderson Valley 750 ml

“A delicious, no-nonsense wine,” says Wine Enthusiast, defined by “good zingy acidity and excellent balance.”

A few years ago, we found ourselves at Redd Wood in Yountville in the middle of the day at a seated tasting and family-style lunch in a private room, listening as Ehren Jordan of Failla, Vanessa Wong of Peay, Kenneth Juhasz of Auteur, and Ryan Hodgins of FEL all debated and openly discussed the merits of Anderson Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Chardonnay star of the day was FEL. It was a revelation for us—now, it’s your turn.  

An alum of the iconic Hanzell Vineyards, Hodgins is one of Anderson Valley’s most talented winemakers. For proof of his brilliant way with supple whites—and of this region’s unlocked potential—look no further than this 2016 FEL Chardonnay, “a delicious, no-nonsense wine” says Wine Enthusiast, defined by “good zingy acidity and excellent balance.” Seductive white floral aromatics are matched by mouthwatering lemon acidity and a strikingly fresh fruit core, redolent of peaches and herbs. This is cool-climate California Chardonnay at its most drinkable and pleasurable—and at just $28 per bottle, offered at 13% off the list price, it will have you scanning the aisles for more delights from Anderson Valley. There are few this good at this price.

FEL’s owner, Cliff Lede of Lede Family Wines, knew he wanted a foothold in Anderson Valley, one of the coolest wine-growing regions in California, where star wineries like Drew, Navarro, and Handley were producing some of the most classical-style Burgundian wines on the U.S. market. He found what he was looking for in Breggo Cellars, an up-and-coming estate that had quickly become a favorite of Robert Parker’s. “I don’t think anyone is doing what Breggo has managed to achieve with varietals such as Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Riesling in Northern California,” raved Parker, adding: “I can’t recommend their wines highly enough.”

When Lede purchased the winery from the previous owners, he made two smart moves. He kept on consulting winemaker Ryan Hodgins, elevating him to a full-time role, and he purchased the nearby Savoy Vineyard, among the most highly regarded in the region. Hodgins had come from Hanzell, the gold standard for California Chardonnay and a pioneer of fermenting in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Hodgins had absorbed the non-interventionist lessons from his mentors there and begun applying them at Breggo. Parker wrote that he expected the estate, renamed FEL, to only grow better, thanks to Lede’s “commitment to world-class quality.”

Acquiring Savoy Vineyard, which produces fruit for a roster of high-flying clients like Littorai, Auteur, Failla, Peay, and Adrian Fog, would prove another prescient decision. Savoy sits in the town of Philo on the right side of Highway 128, just 12 miles from the roaring Pacific Ocean. A corridor of fog and cold maritime air infuses Wente and Prosser Chardonnay clones with mouthwatering freshness and fine coastal salinity.

In 2016, fruit was harvested between August 25 and September 14 primarily from Savoy, supplemented by grapes from the acclaimed Ferrington Vineyard. Fermentation occurred in French oak, with limited malolactic fermentation permitted, preserving this wine’s superb freshness and clean, lemon acidity. This is a winner!