2016 Gianfranco Bovio Barolo DOCG 750 ml

There is no substitute for great, traditionally-made Barolo, and few producers capture its essence like Gianfranco Bovio. Rich, complex, and completely unique, it’s something every wine lover should experience—in our opinion, over and over. 

Bovio’s 2016 is one of those Barolos, the kind that grabs your attention, then won’t let go. From a fantastic vintage, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate calls this crimson Nebbiolo, “a wine of vivid energy and brightness.” 

It overflows with classic Nebbiolo perfume: scents of dried cherries, plums, and dried cranberries with hints of licorice, dried violets, and the grape’s trademark rose aromas. The palate is grippy, with a wave of flavor that never seems to crest. Black cherries and dried currants dance with tobacco, hints of balsamic, black tea, and hints of fine leather.

This is an essential bottle not just for lovers of Italian wine, but for any red wine lover. Gianfranco Bovio is the ultimate traditionalist, a producer whose devotion to time-honored methods unlocks the grace and depth that make Barolo a collector favorite and sommelier standby. 

Pair his skill with a watershed year like 2016—which Antonio Galloni called “a brilliant vintage full of magnificent wines”—and you get an approachable world-class wine that stands as one of the best buys in traditional Barolo. Brilliantly displaying the profound complexity and vibrancy that can only come with age, this would be a stellar deal at its $50 SRP, but is a can’t-miss steal at over 20% off.

Bovio has prime holdings in two of our favorite villages in Barolo: La Morra and Castiglione Falletto. La Morra is known for beautifully detailed fruit, floral nuances, and an approachable personality, while Falletto brings power, structure, and a dark-fruited intensity to the equation. The blend makes for a wine whose every last drop screams Barolo—a traditionalist’s dream.

We had long been familiar with Bovio’s work, but we truly fell in love with his wine at Perbacco, San Francisco’s iconic temple of Piedmontese cuisine and wine. There, alongside perfectly braised short ribs and orecchiette with sausage, our friend Jack poured vintages young and old—and we were hooked. 

We told him we’d cover lunch… but only in exchange an allocation of this Barolo for Wine Access members. With restaurant lunches off the menu for now, we don’t expect another coup like this in 2021 or beyond. Stock up while you can. 

Once the grapes are harvested, Bovio does the old-school thing and stays out of the way. Fermentation happens with native yeasts before the wine is moved to traditional, large wooden botti for aging. These enormous casks allow for the gradual evolution of the wine without any obtrusive oak flavors—perfect for creating Barolo that’s all about perfume and layered aromatics.

Galloni called 2016 in Barolo “one of the most consistently outstanding vintages I have come across,” yet even in a broadly successful year like this, you’ll find few wines on par with Bovio—and certainly not at this price.