2016 Hook & Ladder Los Amigos Ranch Merlot Chalk Hill Sonoma County 750 ml

The legendary Cecil De Loach may have helped put the Russian River Valley on the map with his namesake winery, but Wine Access members have rediscovered him as a go-to for bargain reds under his Hook & Ladder label. 

Our first three offers from his retirement project were all prompt sellouts, averaging 4.2 out of 5 stars (impressive for a $20 wine), and garnering a growing chorus of Wine Access member reviews like: “Fantastic wine and a great value! I want more!!!”

Enter today’s exclusive offer on Hook & Ladder’s 2016 Merlot from Los Amigos Ranch. 

At just $20 on bottle one, we not only have De Loach’s Merlot well below the price of its Chalk Hill counterparts (which we’ve seen from $45 to $160), but 38% off its $32 winery price.

Fresh off the heels of the estate’s 2015 Los Amigos Cabernet, this Merlot hails from the exact same site within Sonoma County’s prestigious Chalk Hill appellation. Leave it to one of the fathers of Russian River Valley to once again parlay precious grapes from Chalk Hill—Verité has a vineyard in there, and Chalk Hill Winery and Arnot-Roberts call the area home—into perhaps THE greatest Merlot value we’ve ever tasted from the AVA’s volcanic soils.  

Showing a deep fuschia hue, the Merlot has alluring aromas of Damson plum, red currant, and cocoa powder flecked with hints of lavender, vanilla, and allspice. Broad and velvety on the palate, its smooth texture and luxurious tannins frame generous blackberry and plum. The fruit character transitions seamlessly to mocha and toasted oak on the finish, evoking the elegant style of the winery’s (sold out) Cabernet from the very same terroir. 

Cecil De Loach founded the seminal De Loach Vineyards in 1970 and is considered one of Sonoma’s founding fathers. He helped establish the Russian River Valley AVA, and even after selling the De Loach brand in 2003, he and his family have continued to farm and make wines from the 148 acres of the region’s vineyards that he retained. 

Now with the freedom afforded by retirement, his goal is to make estate wines that his friends can afford to drink—specifically his firefighter pals from his days as a San Francisco fireman. He has owned his vineyards for decades so he can price his wines however he wants, without sacrificing any of the quality that made his first label such a Russian River darling.

Which is why the expressive fruit character of this $20 Merlot is still 100% De Loach. Cecil’s Los Amigos Ranch is located in the Chalk Hill AVA, in the northeast corner of the Russian River region that he made famous. While the larger Russian River Valley AVA appellation is renowned for the Burgundian varieties that thrive in its cool climate, Chalk Hill is a bit warmer—the perfect Sonoma County spot for Bordeaux grapes that thrive in Los Amigos. 

Factor in the higher elevation and volcanic soils—think of the red dirt of eastern Oakville or Pritchard Hill—and you get the kind of grapes that typically command top dollar. But because this 132-acre property next to the Robert Young vineyard and close to Ridge's East Bench Vineyard belongs to the De Loach family, the Merlot bears a bargain price tag. 

2016 was an impeccable vintage in Sonoma, a stress-free growing season that endowed wines with an energy and freshness that provided “a striking foil to California’s natural radiance.” Antonio Galloni of Vinous further summarized it: “Simply put, 2016 is one of the most consistently brilliant and alluring young vintages I have ever tasted in Sonoma.” 

Thankfully, Cecil hasn’t courted press for his Hook & Ladder reds, instead keeping his single-vineyard, ultra-affordable values quietly exclusive to the Wine Access members who snap them up immediately on release. With the Chalk Hill AVA on the label, we’d be thrilled with this multilayered Merlot at twice the price—that it’s $20 is the cherry on top of an already incredible wine.