2016 Kataro Sireni Armenia 750 ml

For true wine lovers, the exotic, spice-laden 2016 Kataro Sireni might just be the most exciting red discovery of the year.

That’s because Armenia’s native Sireni variety can only be found in the picturesque hillside region of Artsakh, where it’s known as the wild stallion of grapes—as achingly beautiful as it is formidable to tame.

Not that there’s anything tame about the 2016 Kataro Sireni. Its deep ruby hue unlocks an aromatic treasure trove of dried cherry, pomegranate, and wild herbs that carry over onto an expansive, mineral-driven palate. Dense and bold, but never heavy, with leathery tannins and mouthwatering acidity, the black cherry character persists through a charmingly rustic finish, picking up intriguing coriander and sumac notes along the way.

It only makes sense that this difficult grape comes from Artsakh, a region that’s been so hotly contested over the centuries that it remains classified as a breakaway state. The political strife which makes it so rare to come across a bottle of its flagship wine will sound familiar to lovers of Lebanon’s Château Musar—and Kataro is likewise the star winery of its disputed terroir.  

There, the Avetissyan family has been at it for over 100 years, perfecting an opulent, minerally interpretation of Sireni out of its 2,000-foot high clay soils that few (if any) have managed to master. The result is a wonderfully intense, modern wine from a truly ancient wine-growing region that’s an absolute joy to discover.