2016 On Q Appassionata Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 750 ml

When we offered last year’s 96-point “insider” Napa Cabernet, the On Q Appassionata, it sold out quickly—and that was before Wine Enthusiast broadcast winemaker Maayan Koschitzky’s name out to the world as one of their 40 Under 40 Tastemakers of 2019. Now, the world is on high alert for wines from Maayan, the Screaming Eagle alum and director of winemaking for 100-point Philippe Melka’s Atelier Melka.

The combination of an ultra-high-demand winemaker and ultra-low-production will cause a frenzy over the mere five barrels of Appassionata that Maayan produced in 2016, and Napa Cabernet collectors will clamor to plunk down $185 per bottle. 

The 2016 Appassionata shows off the magic touch that Maayan has earned through his impeccable experience: It’s a saturated ruby-purple color, and shows initial aromas of warm smashed blackberry, cassis, and raw cacao before bay leaf, Madagascar vanilla, and freshly ground coffee waft into the background. The palate opens with a richly concentrated core of black fruits and seasoned cedar, and packs tremendous volume and power, with substantial length. It’s just a baby at this point, but positively singing, and already showing glimpses of a brilliant life ahead of it!

Maayan has been on a superstar track from the moment he arrived in Napa Valley from Israel:  He started at Screaming Eagle, then joined Philippe Melka at Atelier Melka, where he helped craft cult icons Lail, Moone-Tsai, Fairchild, and Tusk, and rose from assistant winemaker to director of winemaking. On Q, his project with proprietor Steve Brady, has risen to its own cult status with a full mailing list—and long wait.  

We just caught up with Maayan, who, even with the frantic harvest looming, still had his sense of humor in tact: When we asked him if his phone had been ringing off the hook since he was named one of Wine Enthusiast’s Top 40 Under 40 Tastemakers, he said, “Yeah. Mostly it’s my friends saying, ‘We didn’t know you were under 40!’”

Knowing Maayan had about a million things to get done before harvest, we just took up a little of his time to talk about the 2016 Appassionata. Like the 2015, it’s sourced from two sites in Napa’s premier Coombsville sub-appellation: Lambert Family Vineyard, which provides the richness and density, and Massoumi, a hillside site with older vines, which contributes freshness and that subtle minty quality. Meticulous farming keeps grape yields low which, coupled with poor soils, leads to extremely concentrated flavors. Cool winds from San Pablo Bay toughen grape skins while sunny Coombsville skies allow slow maturity, resulting in plenty of robust tannins and pure fruit flavors—hallmarks of age-worthy Cabernets. 

Maayan thinks the depth and tannins, which are softened by aging in 100% new French oak, are what distinguish the 2016 Appassionata. “It’s pretty classic. More in the red fruit profile, with good integration on the tannins, very textural with good length. It’s going to be showing well young, but the aging potential is really good on it.”