2016 TOR Wines Chardonnay Durell Vineyard Sonoma Coast 750 ml

The Romanée-Conti of California

“I visited Romanée-Conti several years in the 80s and spent a good deal of time with the winemaker,” vintner Tor Kenward told us. “We essentially make our Chardonnay the exact same way.” Fermented and aged in French Oak, with lees stirring for creaminess, and bottling the wines without fining and filtration to showcase the maximum expression of color, aroma, and flavor, we couldn’t help but agree.

Buttery, rich, and citrus-scented, the 2016 TOR Durell Vineyard Chardonnay is a 95 point blockbuster that’s keeping TOR at the top of the proverbial heap, and a can’t-miss release for lovers of rich, luscious Chardonnay and Burgundian elegance.

During our last visit to TOR, we both started and finished our visit with the ‘16 Durell Chardonnay. First, over small talk and getting settled in, it intrigued us with complex aromas of golden apple, honeysuckle, jasmine, and citrus cream. After an hours-long tasting, it refreshed us with its hypnotic combination of ripe orchard fruit, white peaches, slate, and baking spice—combining fresh aromas with a decadence and intensity that only the best vineyard sites can muster.

It makes sense when you consider the Durell vineyard’s near-mythical status: The vineyard lies at the edge of three appellations—Carneros, Sonoma Valley, and the Sonoma Coast—and the wines showcase the confluence of Pacific breezes, California sun, and long, cool days with beautiful precision.

We wouldn’t have a prayer of securing an allocation of a wine this in demand, save for Wine Access’s Master Sommelier Sur Lucero, who boosted the TOR brand at the French Laundry. Many would gladly empty out their wallet for a California Grand Cru white as equal in quality to this, but at this terrific price, you don’t have to.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate adored this release to the tune of 95 points, praising its aromas of  “lemon peel, grapefruit, slate, white peaches and baking spice,” and went on to wax poetic about the wine’s “rich, satiny and spicy,” texture which makes this a must-have for lovers of white wine.

But the Advocate isn’t the only one to recognize the delicious complexities of TOR’s 2016 Durell and pounce— this Sonoma jewel is being recognized far and wide, with placements on stunning wine lists like those of Providence Restaurant LA, The Farm at Carneros Inn, Goose & Gander, and is en route to the two Michelin-starred Spago in Beverly Hills.

Planted in 1979, Durell has a decades-long reputation as one of the most extraordinary vineyards on the coast and the home of numerous 94-96 point Kistler Chardonnays, and TOR likewise relies on the juicy Wente clone to give their single-vineyard Chardonnay its combination of elegance, concentration, and verve. The clone thrives in the Goulding clay loam and diatomaceous earth that define Durell’s terroir and lends smoky subtlety to the finished wine. In particular, TOR sources from the coveted “Sandy Hill” block, defined by fine sand and a steep incline, imbuing the berries with saline sophistication and mineral depth.

The winemaking pedigree at TOR could not be higher, with Jeff Ames, “one of Napa’s rising stars” according to Wine Spectator, at the wheel and Tor Kenward, a 25-year veteran of Beringer, overseeing the operation. Kenward takes inspiration from a Montrachet legend, and in 2016 you can taste it.