2017 Assuli Baglio Lorlando Nero d'Avola Sicilia 750 ml

“Not sure there’s a wine in the world that can make this work,” we quipped, after we’d ordered an impossible-to-pair range of dishes at one of San Francisco’s most famous James Beard Award-winning Southern Italian restaurants.

But our server took it as a challenge, telling us she had one in mind—and all but laughing in our faces when we asked her to keep it under $80. She returned with the 2017 Assuli Baglio Lorlando, and finished pouring it around just as the whole feast—fennel sausage and coppa pizzas, panzanella, cannellini beans, braised greens—started crowding the table. 

Her pick had us from the first sip: Showing an inky black hue, we were beguiled by the juicy, red-fruited, big-tannin rusticity that reminded us of the Southern Rhône—and the red’s credentials just got stronger as we dug into the feast. No matter the complex (and even spicy) flavors of the dishes on the table, the Lorlando elevated every bite. And by the end of the meal, having just partaken in some of the most celebrated dishes at an SF institution, we found ourselves raving—about both bottles of Lorlando we’d emptied. 

Needless to say, that night sent us straight to the importer, from whom we secured the US exclusive at a price that—even compared to the very reasonable $45 at the osteria—qualifies as an outright steal: just $18 per bottle. With 90 points from Vinous and given its irresistibility and do-it-all versatility, this is one you’ll want to have on hand from late summer through fall and beyond. 

Helmed by third-generation vintner Roberto Caruso, Assuli Baglio sits between Marzara dell Vallo and Trapani in the Northwest corner of Sicily and benefits from the island’s classic Meditteranean climate that keeps the vineyards’ 50-60 year-old-vines dry and tempered by sea breezes throughout the growing season. Made with a fusion of classic European and New World winemaking techniques, Assuli’s take on the classic Sicilian red dazzles with the silky-smooth dimension that’s irresistible to Napa Cab lovers, yet has the rustic charm that makes Italian wines invincible on the table. 

Considered Sicily’s full-bodied competitor to Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, Nero d’Avola has reached well-deserved stardom—and has a worthy shepherd in Roberto. While his 2017 showcases bold and powerful Nero d’Avola’s signature fullness and spicy, floral aromatics, he’s raised the bar with silken elegance and lifted red florals that perfectly balance its darker fruit and baking spice qualities. 

The 2017 Lorlando embodies the Carusos’ mission to safeguard the winemaking and aromatic traditions that make Sicily a bastion of cultural uniqueness, and an Eden for red wine. His Nero d’Avola shines, big time, no matter what kind of culinary stars with which it shares the stage.