2017 Borgogno Cannubi Barolo 750 ml

Across the entire history of Barolo, there ‘s been no greater vineyard than Cannubi. In fact, the Cannubi name graced bottles coveted by Europe’s aristocracy before Barolo was ever put on a label—that’s how deep the site’s history is.

In the hands of Giacomo Borgogno, a legendary producer who first opened their doors in the 1700s, the grapes from Cannubi turn into one of the most profound expressions of Italian wine. That was especially true in 2017, a warm vintage that delivered generous, sun-filled wines.

The 2017 Borgogno Cannubi earned 95 points from James Suckling, who called it “Very long and extremely focused.” It’s old-school Barolo to its core, and a wine that expresses its vintage with startling vibrancy. Wine Spectator’s 95-point review called it “Bright, supple and expressive…Pure and graceful…All the components are in the right proportion.”

2017 was a warm, drought-afflicted year in Barolo—but it was saved by refreshing rains in September, which ended up substantially cooler than August. The winery had to work hard in the vineyard to produce such a beautiful wine: To keep tannins “sweet,” they said, they kept the canopy intact so the grapes wouldn’t get sunburned. They also selected fruit from only the best part of Cannubi, ending up with about 50% less than usual.

Borgogno’s traditional script for vinification ensures robust aging potential. The maceration lasts over 40 days, and this extended soak on the grape skins deepens the wine’s color, intensity, and powerful tannins. Four years in Slavonian oak casks and further refinement in bottle gently tame this giant without detracting from its expression of terroir. It’s a sublime combination of a legendary producer, site, and vintage.