2017 Domaine du Château de Messey Clos Des Avoueries Monopole Macon Cruzille AOP 750 ml

When Burgundy megastars Dominique Lafon and Domaine Leflaive expanded their holdings south to the Mâcon from the Côte de Beaune, it sent a signal to the wider world: The limestone-rich Mâcon is a Burgundy value powerhouse. 

But by the time those major players moved in, Château de Messey had been there for years, making stellar Burgundy from ancient sites that were owned and farmed centuries earlier by the legendary Monks of Cluny. Today, we’ve got Château de Messey’s top bottling, the Clos des Avoueries Monopole Mâcon Cruzille, at the kind of price you rarely see at all in the Côte de Beaune—let alone for a monopole from a stellar terroir. 

This is a tiny-production, handpicked Chardonnay from a single hilltop site in the cobblestoned village of Cruzille. Bursting with a gorgeous aromatic mélange of exuberant lemon, delicate chamomile, white pepper, mint, and crushed rock, it shows class and spirited elegance that belie its humble price tag. 

It’s a Burgundy steal that demonstrates exactly why you should be paying attention to the Mâcon—and specifically, to Château de Messey. 

Perched 1,200 feet up on an east-facing slope, and surrounded by an enclosure of oak trees and boxwood, the Clos des Avouries is a little vineyard jewel owned entirely by Château de Messey. To lay claim to the full expression of a vineyard is a luxury that most producers in Burgundy can only dream of, and it’s one that owner and winemaker Marc Dumont takes incredibly seriously. 

This hallowed terroir, once stewarded by the monks, differs from its surroundings in its high altitude and its soil composition. The vineyard’s lofty elevation keeps Chardonnay grapes slightly cooler, preserving extra freshness, verve, and acidity—expressed in lemon peel, tangerine, and lime blossom—while a thin layer of red clay resting on top of the region’s heralded limestone bedrock adds unique mineral complexity. 

When Dumont purchased the estate in 1989, Clos des Avoueries was the first vineyard he replanted, paving the way for its stardom today. In the cellar, Dumont uses the light touch of a master, fermenting with native yeast and aging the wine in a mixture of oak barrels and foudres to add polish, richness, and subtle spice, while keeping the vineyard expression at the center of the bottle. 

Precise, artisanal beauty is on full display in this white Burgundy, matched only by extraordinary value. Don’t miss it.