2017 Chateau de Ruth Cotes du Rhone 750 ml

Rich and Decadent Case-Buy Red

In the coming months, you’ll be hearing a lot about the incredible 2017 vintage in the Southern Rhône, but seeing very little of it, as yields were historically low. Take today’s 2017 Château de Ruth Côtes du Rhône Rouge as an example. This sumptuous old-vine Grenache and Syrah, cultivated on stony riverbed vineyards, caressed by the fine Mediterranean climate hails from one of the oldest properties in the Rhône Valley. Produced by the legendary Philippe Cambie—whom Wine Spectator calls “the most successful winemaking consultant in France’s Southern Rhône Valley”—we introduced this red to the U.S. nearly eight years ago. Our annual allocation in years when yields were average? 400 cases. This time? Just 150 cases. For those quick enough, drink this beauty all summer, but leave plenty around for fall. Definite case-buy.

Vincent Moreau had had his eye on Château de Ruth for a while, sometimes driving past the vineyards just to take it all in. One of the oldest properties in the Rhône Valley, its history dates back to 1561; vines have been cultivated there since the late 1600s. Over the years, Château de Ruth has had a number of illustrious owners: French Formula One driver Maurice Trintignant, the royal Beauharnais family, and Gabriel Meffre, one of the region’s leading négociants. In the end, with luck on his side, Moreau succeeded in convincing Meffre to sell him the estate. After carrying out extensive vineyard restructuring, the results there have been nothing short of magnificent.

Moreau’s background is in geology and the quarrying business, and he knew the potential of the site from the start. Located on ancient riverbeds, the soils are rich in red clay, the surface dotted with galet-like stones. Vines up to 80 and 100 years in age send roots deep, allowing grapes to acquire extraordinary ripeness and complexity even in hot, dry vintages. The balmy Mediterranean climate infuses fruit, cleansed by the howling Mistral, with mouthwatering freshness.

Philippe Cambie, who minted multiple wines on Wine Spectator’s 2017 Top 100 list and was previously named Oenologist of the Year by Robert Parker, is obsessive about working a vintage perfectly. (He once claimed the disastrous 2002 vintage made him physically sick!) Luckily for Cambie and Moreau, 2017 proved at miracle at Château de Ruth, though it was another historically low-production year for the Rhône Valley.

Spring was warm and sunny, refreshing rains falling at the first sign of stress in the vines, and come harvest time berries were small, thick-skinned, and packed with raspberry and high-toned herbs de Provence. Drinking spectacularly right now, but will continue to put on weight for another five years. A no-brainer case-buy.

- Wine Access Wine Team