2017 Domaine Corsin Saint-Véran Vieilles Vignes 750 ml

For over 30 years, Stephen Tanzer has been to Burgundy what Robert Parker was to Bordeaux—the most respected critic in the world. Not surprisingly, then, when Tanzer published his 2017 white Burgundy report, in which he described these exquisite Chardonnays as “elegant, pure wines with considerable aromatic appeal and early accessibility, along with the balance and stuffing for at least mid-term aging,” American importers flocked to Burgundy.

This is a story of several critical decisions taken by Jean-Jacques and Gilles Corsin throughout the growing season, which gave birth to one of the richest and most elegant under-$30 bargains from a vintage that may never be forgotten on the limestone hillsides of Burgundy.  

When we called the Corsin brothers on April 7th to get an early update on the 2017 growing season, both Jean-Jacques and Gilles were cautiously optimistic. After three consecutive short vintages, each punctuated by climatic events that crippled yields by 20-50%, February, March, and early April had been unusually warm. The table seemed set for a healthy fruit set and a fine harvest.  

Just ten days later, we called back. All bets were off.

Beginning on the night of April 15 and continuing for fifteen nights thereafter, the mercury plunged on the limestone hillsides above Davaye—just as it had in April 2016. Temperatures dipped precariously close to freezing. Growers, having learned a hard lesson just a year before, took desperate measures, and drove trucks filled with hay up the hillsides. They then set fire to the hay in the hope of raising the temperature of the vines just a degree or two. 

Fortunately, the 60-year-old St.-Véran parcel that ranks among the most perfectly exposed and most meticulously farmed in the region was spared. Then, Nature turned on the jets.

Bright sunshine bathed La Roche de Solutré during the last ten days of May, and the first week of June made for near-perfect flowering and juicy small berry clusters. While July featured a couple of severe heat spikes, the nights remained cool, slowing down maturation. August, too, was hot and dry. Many growers took to the vines earlier than expected, wanting to avoid any chance of another climatic catastrophe before harvest. 

The Corsins rolled the dice and waited. On August 30th, the sky finally opened up and the rain fell, refreshing the small-berry Chardonnay clusters, staving off any concern for dehydration or desiccation. The harvest began soon after under perfect conditions, ending well before the second storm arrived on September 15th.

The resulting 2017 Domaine Corsin St.-Véran Vieilles Vignes is magnificent. Pale green-gold to the rim, infused with mouthwatering aromas of quince, pear, and green apple, and a hint of anise. Rich and juicy on the first sip, multi-layered and complex on the mid-palate, finishing with a textbook acid backbone that argues for a good slumber in a cool cellar.