2017 Domaine Fabien Coche Pinot Noir Bourgogne Cote d'Or 750 ml

“Value Burgundy” is usually said just how it’s written here—with air quotes. While true that any sentence containing “value” and “Burgundy” is generally an oxymoron, there are still the occasional hidden gems that can be found for $30, like today’s 2017 Domaine Fabien Coche Bourgogne. It’s like anything worth discovering—you just have to know where to look. 

Our secret go-to spot for serious red Burgs that over-deliver for the money? Meursault. 

Hiding in plain sight, amidst the ocean of famous (and famously expensive) Chardonnays, the region’s top white wine producers have always reserved about five percent of Meursault’s vineyards for beautifully ethereal Pinot Noir. As is the case for Meursault-based Domaine Fabien Coche, these rouges are typically passion projects, making them exceptionally rare, yet surprisingly affordable given the quality. 

In spite of the label designation on Domaine Fabien Coche’s 2017 Pinot Noir, this Bourgogne hails from the estate’s old-vine parcels around Meursault, bolstered with a touch of Pommard for structure. It exudes the best of both villages, with a seductive perfume of fresh-tilled earth, smoky flint, savory dried herbs, white pepper, and violet. The silken palate expresses layers of the crunchy cherry and nervy wild strawberry character that we’ve come to associate with red Meursault, just before the long and lively finish. Incredibly, this under-$30 Pinot will only get better over the next decade. 

With close familial ties to Jean-François Coche of the legendary Coche-Dury (which Jancis Robinson describes as one of the “Masters of Meursault”), it’s no wonder cousin Fabien Coche has turned out such impressive results from his neighboring vines. Equally impressive are his domaine’s old vines: Over 60% of them are pushing past 60 years old. A family estate since it broke off from celebrity producer Coche-Dury in 1940 (when Fabien’s father christened it Domaine Coche-Bizouard), its vines have been farmed traditionally from the start and Fabien has only doubled down on that commitment since he took the reins in 1998 (re-naming it after himself). Yes, you read that right: This value Burgundy comes from the same iconic terroir as Coche-Dury’s $100+ wines. 

The family's enviable holdings comprise 12 hectares of vineyards spread over 27 distinct appellations, including some of the most coveted parcels in Meursault, Pommard, Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie, Saint-Romain, and Puligny-Montrachet. 

2017 Domaine Fabien Coche Bourgogne is a combination of estate lots from Meursault’s Les Pacriots, Les Pressoles and Les Monantines vineyards and Pommard’s Les Crenilles—all brilliant sites, made all the more sumptuous when brought together in this over-performing wine. 

Though it’s priced like Bourgogne bottlings with far less impressive provenance, this richly layered Pinot drinks like a top wine from the very appellations it is sourced from. A rare find for Burgundy lovers and value-hunters alike, this is one for both the cellar and the dinner table.