2017 Domaine Les Pallieres Gigondas Les Racines Rhone 750 ml

The town of Gigondas, a charming village of ancient stone buildings and still older stone streets clustered at the foot of France’s Dentelles de Montmirail, is not on the way to anywhere—you have to mean to be there. But once you get there, as we did on our last visit to the Rhône, the place makes an impressive argument that its wines rival (or best) those from the Southern Rhône’s marquee village.

In fact, the winemaking titans behind Les Pallières went to Gigondas for just that reason: The terroir is so similar to the lauded vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape that the legendary Brunier family behind La Vieux Télégraphe couldn’t resist tapping into these clay and limestone soils. The reason is simple: Gigondas vineyards bring the same concentration, density, and age-worthy structure into the wines as Châteauneuf-du-Pape for 30-50% less. 

We’re so glad they did. Bursting with wild raspberry, fresh flowers, bramble, and earth the 2017 Domaine Les Pallières Gigondas Les Racines is a knockout red that mirrors the best of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but with a freshness and delicate energy that is distinctly Gigondas.

At half the price of Vieux Télégraphe, Les Racines is the old-vine bottling from Domaine des Pallières, and it delivers all the sweet, smoky fruit and spice that define Gigondas. 

Relying on the same core of grapes as its famous neighbor, Gigondas offers red wine lovers a unique twist on the Southern Rhône’s signature power. Here, a higher elevation (250-400m, compared to 100) keeps vineyards slightly cooler and increases daytime-nighttime temperature variation—both key factors for preserving acidity in the ripening grapes which translates to freshness and elegance in the finished wines. The thin limestone scree over a dense layer of clay also gives lift, coming together to give that same mix of red and black fruits interlaced with garrigue that we love in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but in a higher register.

Gigondas has just 532 residents, not yet including any American winos (to our knowledge). But it has inspired American wine professionals we know to seek out real estate offices when they first visit, thinking to cash it all in and make a move.

In the ‘70s and ‘80s, importer Kermit Lynch was one of the first of those Americans who was captivated not just by the Tolkienesque charm of the town but by the singular wines the ruggedly beautiful slopes surrounding it produced. Decades later, while he didn’t move there, he did the next best thing: He bought a winery. 

In partnership with brothers Brunier of Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Kermit was able to acquire and rescue Domaine des Pallières. Once-crumbling ancient stone terraces now neatly support the 70+-year-old vines (80% Grenache, 5% Clairette, and 15% co-planted Syrah and Cinsault) on the imposingly steep slope rising up from the winery. They rely fully on organic farming, and train the vines in a bush-style, protecting the grapes from wind and sunburn in the mistral-battered and sun-bleached landscape.

The same attention to detail and allergy to corner-cutting that define Vieux Télégraphe are in play at Pallières. Fermentation is done in upright cuves, half of them concrete (the Bruniers’ preference in a blind taste test) and half neutral oak (Kermit’s first choice). The blend provides the best of both worlds in this ripe but complexly layered and elegant wine from three professionals long steeped in the character of this remarkable region.

Don’t miss the 2017—a prime vintage for this storied estate—it’s an opportunity to visit the Rhône today without buying a plane ticket.