2017 Julien Sunier Morgon 750 ml

Vibrant and structured: Beaujolais at its Best

We thought our last meeting with organic vintner Julien Sunier would go the same as always: We’d taste through his lineup of cru Beaujolais, confirm our allocation, and then—after a leisurely lunch and an espresso—say à la prochaine and cruise up to the Côte de Beaune.

But since a violent July storm reduced the 2017 Beaujolais crop to one quarter its normal size, and since the lion’s share of Julien’s wine is usually claimed by a rabid pack of urban sommeliers, we knew claiming an allocation for Wine Access members might be a little more work than normal. 

With its lively acidity, firm tannic balance, and lingering hints of earth on the finish, it’s easy to see why this wine is a mainstay of Michelin-starred eateries and watering holes: Because in any vintage, Sunier’s Morgon is Cru Beaujolais at its best. The 2017 Julien Sunier Morgon is much more than an “amazingly fresh and energetic wine,” as James Suckling called it in his 94-point review. The 2017 shows wonderful black cherry and pomegranate on the nose, coupled with complex notes of violets, nutmeg, marjoram, leather, and granite.  

Julien Sunier is one of the most exciting vintners in the region, and has been dedicated to organic viticulture since the day he founded his winery a decade ago. In Morgon, he works with 4.5 densely planted acres that were planted in the 1960s. He harvests by hand, ferments using only native yeasts, and ages his reds in neutral Burgundy barrels.

When we talk about Beaujolais crus, we must acknowledge Beaujolais Nouveau, the freshly fermented red that hits the shelves just after harvest. Simply put, If Beaujolais Nouveau is all fruitiness and simplicity, then Cru Beaujolais is what happens when the Gamay grape gets serious. It is regal, structured, and age-worthy, and expresses terroir—especially the decomposing granite soils of the region—impeccably.  

The result is everything Cru Beaujolais aspires to be, and you’ll be thrilled to sip it: A vibrant and inviting red that is just what the warming weather calls for. Give the bottle a slight chill, and crack it over fall sunsets.