2017 Pagos del Galir Godello Valdeorras Spain 750 ml

Burgundian Complexity, Spanish Value

This is the kind of wine that, tasted blind, could easily pass for a bottle three times as expensive. Valdeorras may be the next white Burgundy in a number of key ways, but price, happily, isn’t one of them.

Ringing in at $19 per bottle, this vibrant, energetic wine earned an effusive 92 points from James Suckling, who called it “layered and flavorful,” praising its as “a vivid and bright white with lemon, sliced pear and green-apple character on the nose and palate.”

His praise comes as no surprise, considering that the appellation is often considered to be the Burgundy of Spain: The white wines of Valdeorras are exceptionally terroir-specific, elegant yet structured, and with flavors that can only be found in this little pocket of southern Galicia. Think along the lines of Viognier but with more nerve, or great German Riesling but with more backbone, and you’re in the ballpark.

And yet, because they still remain relatively unknown outside of the most passionate sommelier circles—who adore these wines for their versatility at the table and frankly unbelievable prices—the top whites of Valdeorras represent some of the best value in all of Europe.

This Goddello is crafted by a producer that, though it was founded less than 20 years ago, has shown so much promise that it has already been purchased by Cune, one of Spain’s oldest and most prestigious producers. Their infusion of capital and know-how have raised Pagos del Galir to the apex of the Valdeorras DO.

Our own team didn’t even go through the motions of debating whether or not to offer this to our customers: With aromas of ripe stone fruit and braised fennel, and brilliantly defined flavors of peach, nectarine, pineapple, lemongrass, and anise, the spit buckets around the room remained resolutely dry.

Sourced from two of the best vineyards in Spain—think high-altitude slopes of 30%, both made of decomposed schist soils that impart incredible energy to the wine—this 92-point gem has absolutely everything going for it.

Whether enjoyed by the pool or savored at a formal table, this will take you through Labor Day with ease.