2017 Rubia Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 750 ml

This story is as unlikely as the price of today’s single-vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. But just like the humble earth tones that tether the 2017 Rubia’s exuberant streaks of strawberry and cranberry, it’s as true as it gets. 

We were at Corkbuzz in NYC, the industry Mecca where you can see anyone and anything can happen. Seated away from the bar, back towards the immense, glass-enclosed cellar, we were enjoying a few bottles with friends. Our industry bud, we’ll call him “Pat,” to preserve his anonymity (and possibly his dignity) had ordered the 2000 Williams Selyem Rochioli Riverblock Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, on the list at a cool $350. We thought he was being generous, little did we know we would be footing the bill. 

The Rochioli was of course sensational, offering profound aromas of black cherry and raspberry etched with cedar, spice, and forest floor. We were halfway into our second round when Pat called to the waiter for fresh glasses. “We’ll come back to that,” Pat said, anticipating our protest, “I have something else for you to try.” Pulling a bottle from a leather carrying case and a wine key from his jacket pocket, Pat proceeded to open up his own wine in the middle of Corkbuzz and pour us four ounces of a garnet-hued elixir. 

“Go ahead,” Pat said, smiling. 

With plenty of skepticism we raised the glasses, swirled, and buried our noses. Deep earth. We were instantly transported to a walk in the forest, dew on the leaves and damp soil under our feet. Another swirl and a raspberry patch appeared in front of us, surrounded by cedar trees. The scene unfolded further with each silken sip as we crossed paths with cherry trees and fallen logs where wild mushrooms sprouted. 

“It’s gorgeous.” 

It was clearly Pinot Noir, younger than the Williams Selyem, but cut from similar cloth, leaning further towards the savory, earth-driven side. 

“This is the Russian River Valley’s greatest bargain,” Pat said. “Rubia Wine Cellars, where Julien Fayard now works, made this in 2017 from a single site in the heart of the appellation. It was $60 on release but their operation is tiny and they need space for the 2019s in the warehouse. The new price is $17.99 on cases. You interested?” 

Of course we were. In the span of a single generation, Sonoma’s Russian River Valley has transformed from a quiet, bucolic orchard community to Sonoma’s trendiest sub-zone, complete with glitzy tasting rooms and prices that rival Burgundy. A Pinot Noir that delivered like this for under-$20 was a complete miracle, not to mention it had plenty of pedigree—Rubia Wine Cellars, founded by Joe and Margaret Valenzuela in 2013, is a boutique gem that crafts tiny production wines from elite sites. Superstar winemaker Julien Fayard (Lafite Rothschild, Purlieu, Quintessa) recently came on board, captivated by the expressive bottlings like this one. 

“Absolutely,” we replied. 

“Great,” Pat nodded, “now if you don’t mind I actually need to head out. I have a dinner at Momofuku noodle bar in 20 minutes.” 

“What about the Rochioli?” we asked. 

“Consider it an investment,” he shot back. “I’ll follow up tomorrow.” And with that, he left us holding the check and the promise of one of the best Pinot Noir bargains to come out of Russian River Valley in a long time. 

Fortunately, Pat delivered. The last few cases of Rubia Wine Cellars’ stunning single-vineyard Pinot are in our hands, but not for long. At 67% off these are going to fly out the door faster than Pat, so don’t hesitate.