2017 Stolpman Sauvignon Blanc Ballard Canyon 750 ml

Channeling Sancerre Poolside at the Nomad

A Wine Access first! As far as California Sauvignon Blanc goes, Stolpman’s version from Ballard Canyon is racy, polished and Sancerre-like in complexity. And on one recent gorgeous Friday evening, I found myself in one of Los Angeles' most scenic spots: At the rooftop bar of the Nomad at sunset, with a glass of the 2017 Stolpman Sauvignon Blanc in hand, a rose-pink sky reflecting off the skyscrapers and shimmering atop the turquoise pool. I was with the Stolpman team, relaxing after a day's worth of tasting events in L.A. Pete Stolpman and his wife Jessica, superstar vineyard manager Ruben Solarzano and his wife Lupe, and winemaker Kyle Knapp and his wife Savanna. As we crushed the absolutely stunning Stolpman Sauvignon Blanc, bone-dry and bracing on the attack, with fine layers of orchard fruits and lemon acidity, Pete regaled me with how this dynamite team had crafted one of the most unforgettable coastal whites of the year. $22 from the winery, or $16.99 on cases from Wine Access. Hit “buy,” and then read on.

“What they have in the greatest vineyards of the Loire Valley—Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé—is chalky white rock that imparts all that fantastic minerality to the wine,” Stolpman said as he flicked the golden-white liquid in his glass. “A little over 10 years ago, we figured we’d see how Sauvignon Blanc fared on our land and planted two experimental acres. The vineyard sits on a limestone outcropping that’s 40 million years old—it’s incredibly rare, there’s nothing else like it in the county. Rajat Parr came to look at it one day and he agreed that, thanks to the young active soils and the maritime influence, we had the opportunity to make something truly unique.”

Stolpman adjusted the sweating bottle in the ice bucket, the cubes rattling against metal. “We treated it the same as we treated our Syrah. Low-yielding. Loads of texture and depth and nuance. No irrigation. It really stresses the vines, but forces them to dig their roots as deep as they can go, and that’s when they hit the groundwater that shows all that extraordinary limestone influence.”

In the even-keeled 2017 vintage, the make-or-break decision for wineries was whether they harvested before or after a blistering September heat wave. The early-ripening Sauvignon grapes were all hand-picked before temperatures spiked, preserving their richness and vibrant citrus acidity. Stolpman and Knapp do three different fermentations, partially in a 4,000L French oak foudre, and age the wine in stainless steel tanks and oak puncheons. This ideal combination preserves freshness while allowing the oak to soften the wine and round it out texturally.

We can verify this dazzling release, as good as Santa Barbara whites get at any price, will make an L.A. rooftop sunset with friends even more magical. Stock up and save a bottle for a hot poolside afternoon while the sun sets, and you'll be pouring glasses of the essence of summer, wherever and whenever you are.