2018 Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin 750 ml

In Burgundy, geography is normally destiny. The vineyards that have earned their lofty Grand and Premier Cru designations over centuries usually yield the greatest wines—and usually command the highest prices.  

We’re always on the hunt for the wineries that elevate wines beyond the status of their soil—and we’ve quickly learned to count on Domaine de la Vougeraie to leave our expectations in the dust. From a vintage that Decanter suggested could “rival the mythical 1947,” their 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin represents one of the best buys we’ve seen in the Côte d’Or. 

Every Michelin-starred restaurant in France features at least one Domaine de la Vougeraie wine on their menu, and when we tasted this Gevrey-Chambertin among 20 Burgundies—many of them Grands and Premier Crus—we understood why. That’s why we made sure to leave with an allocation for Wine Access members.

Gevrey-Chambertin is one of the most storied villages in Burgundy, and it delivers some of the most structured, muscular expressions of French Pinot Noir. The 2018 Domaine de la Vougeraie shows a gorgeous clarity in its ruby-purple hue and swirls with endless aromas of wild cherry, black raspberry, herbes de Provence, lavender, violets, licorice, minerals, and baking spice. It’s structured, broad, and dense on the palate, with deep flavors of black cherry, red currant, wild herbs, and a touch of pink peppercorn.

This bottle is enjoyable now for its youthful power, but its long, lingering finish suggests that it will absolutely thrive in the cellar. There’s no question that it will add more earthen depth and high-toned floral notes in time—the question is whether you’ll have the patience to keep your hands off it. 

It was about a week into our last trip to France when we drove up to the unassuming stucco building in the village of Premeaux-Prissey, just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Only a brass shield next to the wrought iron gate let us know we had found Domaine de la Vougeraie.  

Founded in 1999 by the Boisset family, the domaine is dedicated to producing top-flight Burgundy from the family’s finest 86 acres in the region. 

A tour of their caves and winery revealed the precision behind their exquisite wines. The family makes more than 39 different bottlings from 36 appellations, and the grapes are vinified in custom tanks tailor-made for each individual plot of land. The Gevrey-Chambertin hails from several parcels from around the village, and the complex blend of geographies enhances the textural depth of the wine.  The varied age-range of vines likewise adds an inimitable dimension to the 2018: The youngest vines behind the bottling are 30 years old, while the oldest date back to 1949. 

After more than 16 months in 33% new French oak, this deep and muscular Gevrey-Chambertin is showing beautifully now, and will only evolve in the cellar. This one belongs in yours, alongside the very best of Burgundy.