2018 Domaine Papagiannakos Assyrtiko Attica Greece (20003862) 750 ml

At $21 and 93 points, the 2018 Domaine Papagiannakos Assyrtiko is a Greek wine for the history books, and one that belongs in your battery of go-to whites. No other wine in the category can touch it for price-to-value ratio.  

There’s really nothing else quite like it, period. We adore its transparent, mineral-flecked character and zingy citrus notes, and floral undertones. On the first sip, this 2018 reminded us of Premier Cru Chablis with its elegant, sleek texture and racy acidity. We chalk up the  similarities to the limestone rich terroir—akin to the soils of Chablis and Burgundy—for this wine’s Grand Cru elegance.

If you ask the Papagiannakos family, however, it’s the nearby Temple of Artemis, where wine-god Dionysus was said to have lived, that puts this 93-point white over the top. 

Whether or not you believe that, one thing is certain: This is a great wine that will change everything you thought you knew about Greek whites.

The limestone-rich Papagiannakos vineyard is perfectly situated to grow grapes of incredible elegance—facing north rather than south, their vines escape the blistering Mediterranean sun, which allows their Assyrtiko to ripen more slowly than its peers, developing the complexity that lends it elegance and finesse in addition to bright fruit. The vines are also dry-farmed, forcing the roots to spider deep into the stony earth to find the water and nutrients they need, which imparts an even greater sense of depth, as does the winemaking which employs skin-contact and lees-stirring to add texture and weight to the finished wine. Add in a moderating influence of water—Attica is on the peninsula that juts into the Aegean Sea—and the protection afforded by the mountains, and you have the recipe for a wine with the texture and complexity of $50 Chablis.

With notes of sliced green melon, lemon peel, and raw almond lifted by fennel bulb and a white floral tone, this is a white wine with complexity and verve to spare, and belongs within reach whenever when shellfish is on order, and would be equally delicious alongside an herb-crusted spring lamb or double-cut pork chop. Wine and Spirits recently rated this Assyrtiko 93 points—a head-turning score for an under $25 wine—and praised it for exuding “sunny warmth from its firm, stony flavor.”

The Papagiannakos family behind this crystalline release has been working their land less than 20 miles outside of Athens for a full century: They produced their first wines in the Attica region in 1919, and today, the third generation is at the helm. 

For the incredible pedigree, critical acclaim, and otherworldly terroir, nabbing this wine for $21 is like finding Premier Cru Chablis in the bargain bin. Bring this island bottle home to find out why it’s a can’t-miss white.