2018 Domaine Sauger Cheverny Vieilles Vignes Rouge 750 ml

We go to France with a list of must-visit wineries and must-get wines—but our greatest discoveries are often made in between appointments, at out-of-the-way bistros.

That’s where we were introduced, by an extremely knowledgeable server, to the 2018 Domaine Sauger Cheverny Vieilles Vignes. It’s an aromatic, ruby red wine that just about every sommelier we know back in the States would kill to put on their wine list—for the rarity, sure, but mainly for its outright deliciousness.

After that night, it took 14 months to put this offer together, and our excitement has grown with every step of the process. We have NEVER had the chance to offer a Cheverny rouge at Wine Access—they’re just too hard to get in the US, because most of them are snapped up by Parisian bistros like the one where discovered this Sauger. The ease with which we drained this bottle with our duck confit, and the affordability, just illustrated for us how fast great Cheverny can go.  

Mostly Pinot Noir, with a hearty splash of Gamay, it’s cut from the same cloth as the Passetoutgrains bottlings that come from Burgundy and are popular in French restaurants but nearly impossible to find here. But the grape called Côt grows beautifully in the Loire (it’s known as Malbec elsewhere), and the small proportion that Domaine Sauger adds lends a beautiful all-around depth.  

An aromatic red that brings the best characteristics of Burgundy and Beaujolais but is seldom seen on this side of the Atlantic, we’re thrilled to have broken through with an allocation. We can’t wait for you to feel the excitement of discovery that we felt when we took our first sips—and the joy of a bottle that drinks like it costs twice as much as it does. 

You don’t have to be in an old-school, wood-paneled dining room in the 20th arrondissement to enjoy the charms of this wine—you’ll be whisked there by the déluge of aromas absolutely spilling from the glass: Wild red raspberries, strawberries, and currants emerge, accented by fresh thyme, lavender, and sage. The palate blends flavors of fresh raspberries with black cherries, as well as a touch of earth and pepper. Classic French cuisine is a no-brainer with this wine, but it will sing with classic, slow-smoked American barbeque too.

Located between the Loire and Cher rivers, Domaine Sauger lies in the sweet spot of Cheverny. The excellent drainage of their sandy soils encourages deep roots, and their old vines reward them with beautiful fruit and fantastic complexity, while the winery makes sure that’s captured in the bottle. That means fermenting each variety separately to carefully control extraction and tannin levels, then aging in stainless steel to preserve purity and elegance.

The wines of Cheverny have long been staples of Parisian restaurants for their bright, charming fruit and easy drinkability. Sauger’s is one of the best of the genre we’ve tried, a tribute to the five generations of the family who have built their domaine into one of the standouts in the central Loire. With old-vines and low yields, this has a depth and intensity that’s rarely found at this price, making for a perfect bistro bottle—even if that bistro is your kitchen table.