A Rising Star in Parker’s Own Cellar
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2018 La Ferme du Mont Cotes Capelan Chateauneuf-du-Pape 750 ml
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“One of the Up and Coming Superstars” of the Rhône
“If you haven’t figured it out yet, Stéphane Vedeau’s La Ferme du Mont is one of the up and coming superstars of the Southern Rhône.” That’s a quote from Jeb Dunnuck, and we think it’s a miracle that Vedeau’s Côtes Capelan Châteauneuf-du-Pape hasn’t increased in price more than it has in the past five years. A top bottling from a future household name in Châteauneuf, the 2018 stands with reserve bottlings of the region that easily go for triple digits.
Robert Parker himself has put Vedeau’s Châteauneuf in his cellar, and the legendary critic praised the way the wines “combine the best of the southern Rhone with a Burgundian grand cru–like gracefulness and elegance.”
We had a chance to taste with Stéphane recently, and it was a revelation, with each wine displaying the poise of a master at work. The standout, though, was his Capelan. It’s his top wine, from a tiny four-hectare vineyard of gnarled old vines high on a north-facing hill. At the very top? A nationally-protected truffle forest, which Stéphane insists imbues the bottling with a certain je ne sais quois—and to his credit, it always feels like there’s an extra aroma that’s just out of reach when we smell his wine.
It’s made exceptionally traditionally, with a long maceration and extended aging before release—mostly in concrete tanks, with a little bit of oak to give the wine a final polish. It’s the pinnacle of the Southern Rhône, and a major score for the savviest Rhône collectors.