2018 Ogier Lou Caminé Lirac 750 ml

No region in France produces red wine value as reliably as the Southern Rhône—but even given that reputation, the 2018 Ogier Lou Caminé Lirac is a hell of a find. 

Estate-raised by one of the Rhône’s most reputable families—the Ogier clan behind the famed Clos de l’Oratoire Châteauneuf-du-Pape—this bottle shows why so many Châteauneuf-based producers have staked claims in Lirac. And if you’re not familiar with the wines, there’s no better time to discover them than right now.

90 points from Wine Advocate. Another 90 from Wine Enthusiast. Ripe, luscious, and showing off the peppery savoriness of the Southern Rhône, this is a striking picture of one of the sun-kissed region’s most underrated appellations. 

This is the kind of wine you hope your waiter in Avignon brings in a pichet along with your cassoulet. Back at home, it’s the kind of case we plunk on the cellar floor, tear open immediately, and pull a bottle from pretty much every time we walk by—there just always seems to be a good reason. With bright and powerful aromas of dark plum, Bing cherry, and scorched earth preceding a bold and seductive palate, it’s got a touch of Châteauneuf-style power beefing up the drink-now, drink-often character of the best Côtes-du-Rhône bottlings.

There’s a reason that the big-name families like Ogier can deliver some of the best values. With centuries of winemaking expertise and land holdings that date back generations, they’re largely free of the common concerns of younger wineries—they’re not constantly fretting over grape contracts, employee turnover, or mortgage payments. That means they can maintain near-unbelievable levels of quality at extremely reasonable prices. For evidence, look no further than this under-$20 bottle.

Ogier has been rooted in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since 1859, but this bottle hails from Lirac, the oft-overlooked appellation on the other side of the Rhône River. Sitting northwest of the city of Avignon, Lirac has just 1/4 of the planted acreage of Châteauneuf but enjoys the same sun-kissed climate, the same limestone-and-sand soils, even the same bounty of galets roulés as their famous neighbor. Without the landmark of the river, you’d take one look at the gnarled vines of Lirac and think you’re still in the Southern Rhône’s most renowned appellation, where $80+ blockbusters are commonplace. 

This is the platonic ideal of an all-purpose, anytime red, and at this price, there might be no better bargain in the Southern Rhône.