2018 Ronchi di Cialla Ribolla Gialla Venezia Giulia IGT 750 ml

The view from the back patio of the Rapuzzi family’s Ronchi Di Cialla estate was emerald green for miles. The glass of Ribolla Gialla that Ivan Rapuzzi put on the picnic table in front of us was the most delicate straw yellow you’ve ever seen. We had our first sip there, overlooking the rolling hills of Friuli, but it wouldn’t be our last. 

Enamored with vibrant notes of yellow apple and Meyer lemon threaded with honeysuckle and acacia, we brought our now-emptied glasses and the rest of the bottle with us as Ivan took us out into the meticulously pruned vines of one of Friuli’s foremost estates. By that time, we had already made up our minds that bringing home an allocation of the 2018 Ribolla Gialla was an absolute necessity. We’re happy to say we made it happen.

There are two small plantings of Ribolla that yielded the wine we were (still) drinking, both owned and farmed organically by the Rapuzzis. One is a southwest facing parcel of about six terraced acres. The other, planted slightly higher up, is southeast facing—about five acres. Both are on well-drained, marl soils receiving abundant sunshine. 

As a native grape whose history in Friuli dates to the 13th century, Ribolla Gialla thrives here. Under the tutelage of the Rapuzzi family, it excels, quietly challenging the more expensive Sauvignon Blancs and lean Chardonnays of the world for the title of focused, most refreshing white. Of course, it’s Ribolla’s unique characteristics—the aromatic floral bouquet, stony minerality, and sheer luminousness—that really make it special. When there are as many white grape varieties as there are in northeastern Italy, you have to stand out, and Ribolla does this in spades. 

Leaving the vines and crossing into the cellar, we surveyed the tanks where lees aging and frequent bȃtonnage add a note of brioche complexity to this Ribolla. Not far away were several barrels of Schioppettino, another native grape, whose story demonstrates just how important the Rapuzzis are to the modern history of winemaking in Friuli.

In 1970, when Ivan’s parents, Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi, settled near the town of Prepotto, they took a significant gambit by focusing on local grapes—at the time, bottling certain forbidden varieties carried a credible risk of jail time (really!)—and six years later were awarded the first Nonino Risit d’Aur Prize, for their role in rescuing the indigenous Schioppettino grape from possible extinction. In 2017, Vinous even dedicated a retrospective tasting and article to Ronchi di Cialla, praising their range of “distinctive wines from native Friuli varieties.”

As we made our way back to the picnic table, we couldn’t help but feel immense gratitude for the Rapuzzis and their wines. Clinging to our now-empty bottle of Ribolla Gialla like a newborn baby, we thanked the whole family for welcoming us. They now felt like our family. 

On the way out we asked Ivan for another bottle of Ribolla to share with the team back home—we were flying out early the next morning. Ivan obliged with a smile, but unfortunately that bottle never made it back to the States. It may or may not have been consumed that night at dinner next to a plate of pan-seared sea scallops served over linguini with butter and garlic sauce. Pardon us, but it’s hard not to drink this stuff. It’s hands down one of Italy’s most majestic under-$20 whites, and while a case should be sufficient, there’s no guarantee.