2019 J. Moreau et Fils Fourchaume Chablis Premier Cru 750 ml

Great Chablis is a key part of the world’s finest wine lists for a reason: It’s profound, hauntingly complex, and electric—Chardonnay stripped down to its bare essence of rock and vibrant fruit.

That makes it a Swiss Army knife for wine directors and sommeliers, who can pull it out to pair with just about anything. 

For a temple of gastronomy like San Francisco’s MICHELIN two-star Saison—which focuses on pure expressions of impeccable raw materials—a bottle like J. Moreau’s Fourchaume Premier Cru offers a jaw-dropping vinous experience while still allowing the detail and elegance of the cuisine to shine.

Saison pairs the 2019 with a salad of local Dungeness crab warmed over the fire, with heart of palm, citrus, and a vinaigrette made from its shells. This allows the lemon zest, saline minerality, and hints of nuttiness of the wine to draw out the sweetness of the crab, all while providing refreshment and intrigue between bites.

Fourchaume is one of Chablis’ most famous Premier Crus. Functionally an extension of the bench of Grand Cru sites that line the right bank of the Serein River, it’s one of the most coveted sites in the entire region, notable for its combination of power and minerality.

In J. Moreau, the vineyard has one of its most accomplished winemakers. With over 200 years of history in the region, the Moreau family’s success in Chablis is written in their longevity, in the proliferation of quality wines bearing their name, and in the dozens of top scores the domaine’s wines have received in the past decade.