2020 Castello di Neive Albesani Santo Stefano Barbaresco Piedmont 750 ml

In the wonderful 2020 vintage, Castello di Neive turned their precious Santo Stefano grapes into one of the modern era’s great Piemontese wines—one that scored 97 points from Kerin O’Keefe, the former Enthusiast critic who literally wrote the defining book on Barolo and Barbaresco. She called it “one of the best Barbarescos from the vintage…Absolutely stunning and delicious.” Vinous’ Antonio Galloni also was impressed, writing that it “marries elegance and power, capturing all this site has to offer…a classy Barbaresco that delivers the goods.”

When Castello de Neive acquired their property in the Albesani subzone in 1964, less than a quarter of it was planted. The rest of the land was wild. Yet all the hallmarks of incredible Nebbiolo conditions were there: the south-southwest exposure, which enables ideal phenolic ripening; the water-retaining quality of the clay soils, which safeguards the vines against heat stress; and the moderating influence of the Tanaro River, which helps create a microclimate perfect for the delicate, Pinot Noir-like grape.

Many of the vines date back to the 1960s and 70s, leading to low yields and a distinctive blend of concentration and elegance. How distinctive? Bruno Giacosa, whose single-vineyard bottlings from the site were sourced from Castello di Neive’s vines, once remarked: “I would recognize wine from the Santo Stefano vineyards in the midst of tens of other Barbaresco wines.” 

This is a majestic, meditative Barbaresco that encourages you to slow down and take your time, whether you drink it next week or in the next decade. If you can wait 5–10 years, the payoff will be magnificent. Celebrate it with a luxurious white truffle linguine—or a decadent grilled cheese and truffle sandwich. If you love to experience Nebbiolo in its bold, youthful state, braise some short ribs and start decanting the bottle right when you slide your Le Creuset into the oven.