2020 Chateau Gardat Montagne Saint-Emilion Bordeaux 750 ml

As prices for wines from the heart of Saint-Émilion have soared, lovers of opulent Right Bank Bordeaux have had to look to the star region’s “satellite” appellations for exceptional value.

The winemaking talent has done the exact same thing.

As ambitious vintners have discovered, Montagne Saint-Émilion boasts similar soils—but cooler weather—than Saint-Émilion itself. But with a warming climate and viticultural knowledge improving every year, the gap between the two appellations has narrowed significantly. They’re much, much closer in quality than the pricing would suggest.

Château Gardat is run by Patrick Moze-Berthon along with his son. They represent the 6th and 7th generations to steward the estate, which has been in the family since 1820. The château sits on land that was once used as a quarry—it’s hard to think of rockier terrain in the area—but the most important part of the equation is star consulting winemaker, Hubert de Boüard.

De Boüard is the Bordeaux visionary who, through force of will and technical expertise, transformed his family estate, Château Angélus, from an underperformer to a blue-chip collectible in a decade. He’s been working with Gardat since 2014, and in that time he has radically improved the quality of vineyard management and work in the cellar at this under-the-radar gem.

In the hot 2020 vintage, the team at Gardat took full advantage of the unusual warmth to produce one a beautifully rich wine. These days, a bottle of Angélus will likely run you north of $400—but Gardat offers de Boüard’s signature in a package that you don’t feel guilty opening, even delivering the opportunity for delightful medium-term cellaring.